CMR

Dinowarz

@koifishDeoxit is probably the best for electronics. You can get it off ebay. If you don't want to wait, any contact cleaner from your local auto parts store or wal-mart will work. WD40 also makes an electronics cleaner if you can find it. Chris Edwards on youtube uses it to clean amiga boards. Generally all your contact cleaners are going to be safe for plastics. As far as new buttons go, you can find some really nice ones with Omron switches on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/165057244796?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20220705100511%26meid%3Dfec3c487c54b4f6396413409dbac72fb%26pid%3D101524%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D165057244796%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2&_trksid=p2380057.c101524.m146925&_trkparms=pageci%3A00050336-ce99-11ed-a5b4-f292fab4ac49|parentrq%3A3019b6eb1870a60c035144cbffff4b2e|iid%3A1

I like Treasure games, but I agree with OptOut that they are overrated. To me they inhabit the same space as companies like Compile, TechnoSoft, Falcom and Quintet. They made fun games when they stuck to the types of games they were good at, but when they deviated from that, their games just came off as cumbersome and disjointed. I mostly blame Sega fans for the Treasure hype, and I think a lot of those games listed rode the coat tails of Gunstar Heroes and Radiant Silvergun. Remove those games and a couple more and you aren't left with much that's very interesting IMO. Ironically, I really like Wario World.

Try spraying some contact cleaner, deoxit, or lacking any of that, WD40 down into the switch first. Give it some presses to work the stuff down inside of it and see if that helps. Also take a close look at the wires attached to that switch, and make sure it's not breaking or coming loose. Those switches are pretty robust. I doubt any of them are used up on a console joystick. That thing looks brand new. If you're feeling really frisky, you could even drill out the rivets and take it apart.

If you keep getting up later, you're eventually going to be an early riser.

What brand or type of epoxy would you recommend for something that is going to take a lot of stress or need screws threaded through it?

I thought Bowser's Fury was an excellent example of what an open world 3d Mario game could be. This reminds me I need to buy the new Kirby.

LOL, you really wanted to talk about epoxies didn't you? Thanks for the advice. One of the reasons I went with milliput was because I could mold it easily. If I ever did it over again, I would probably just use JB Weld.

I used something called "milliput" because I thought I needed a black color, and I didn't want to spend a fortune. Turns out color didn't matter because that port is surrounded by the case plastic. I don't know why, but I thought it would be seen from the back. I pre-drilled the holes, but it was still too hard, and the screw threads wouldn't cut into it. Once it cracked, it just started crumbling.

Show off your fixit skills in here. I'll start with a simple one. It's a Sega Saturn power supply. I had to replace the switching transisitor, and I also swapped the broken power cable socket from another broken machine. The one in the pic is one I tried to fix using epoxy paste, but it didn't hold up.

They seem to get a lot of love on the Gameboy subreddit. https://www.reddit.com/r/Gameboy/

Awesome. Has anyone ever seen a Contra III proto where the player's characters had their colors changed to green? VG&CE did a review of the game back in the 90's that had this color difference. https://archive.org/details/vgce_92-03/page/n35/mode/2up

I found this: https://gamex.gg/list-of-n64-colors-for-cartridges/

How are the controls on this remaster? Are they still like the GameCube's, or can you undock the remotes and use them like the will nunchuck combo?

I thought F-Zero X was a fantastic racing game. I wish we had gotten more N64 games that had focused on fast gameplay and solid framerates.

Yea, I've never seen any NP strategy guide with spiral binding before. All the ones I have, including this one, are square backed and glued.

I prefer Salamander's power up system a lot more.

If I had a bigger dong, I wouldn't even wear any.

Here is a couple of things I've picked up in the past few months. It's funny. Growing up, I wasn't much of a Trek fan, but now I like it more than Star Wars. I've got a few more things to show off, but I haven't had the chance to upload them yet.

I would use a silicone based grease or lubricant instead of lithium.

If anyone needs help with the barrels in Carnival Night, I'm here for you. 8/10 with S&K.

Nice work. Maybe this site could give you some ideas for letter colors: https://www.theknot.com/content/colored-gemstones-101 To make things more difficult maybe you could increase the ghost speed for each loop. I think the original Venture only had about four levels that looped.

Pretty awesome! You can count me in. Looks like I'll be kickstarting another project despite myself.

For the HiDef NES mod Kevtris emulated the VRC6 and other expansion audio chips on the HiDef fpga. For a standard top loader, the expansion audio pins are missing from the cart slot completely. This mod shifts audio output from it's normal pin to another pin that does have a connector pin in the cart slot. I can't remember what this pin was originally for, but it's essentially unused for the most part. That cart slot pin is then connected to a point on the RGB mod board that mixes the audio back in with the consoles audio out. There is also a resistor and a wire that needs to be connected like in the front loader, and that's what Voultar's board is supposed to do. I think newer N8 Pros have this mod built in. You also have to do the two pin mod above on 72pin to 60pin adapters if you want expansion audio from famicom games.

Your website won't load for me.