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Mint vs First-Print


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Which is your higher fetish?  

36 members have voted

  1. 1. Mint or First-Print?

    • Mint and Second-Print
      9
    • First-Print and Near Mint
      28


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12 hours ago, Tanooki said:

Again Castlevania, what's the deal seeing that knocked twice in like 24hours now.  Is there like some obvious problems or censoring issues with like the 5screw early run vs the 3 screw standard longer run version of the game?

Biggest issue with mine (5 screw, oversized top label which was the first run) is that you can't spam holy water in the hallway with the axe knights (before you reach Death.) It freezes with the NMI error as mentioned.

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Graphics Team · Posted

I prefer the earliest release of a game, unless there are glaring functional issues that got resolved in later iterations.

Condition doesn't matter to me as long as it plays, and you can keep the box, too.
I just want the game and manual. Utilitarian-style.

-CasualCart

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I'm the crazy who if I am really in love with a game, I want first print, last print, everything in between and I want it all in mint to gem-mint condition.  So... both?  If force to take just one I would go with the First Print for sure depending on definitions of near-mint.  You can always use that second release copy for trade fodder for an early one.

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On 4/26/2022 at 9:16 PM, Tanooki said:

I take it if I want to figure this out I need to get out a screwdriver and compare the two carts I have against bootgod I suppose.  It's not vital I don't plan on getting that good at castlevania again anytime soon to break stuff for a laugh.

Naw, if your game has the revised code to fix the bug, there will be an embossed 'A' on the label on the back of the cart.  On the other hand, if you have a 5-screw cart without an embossed 'A,' then you have the bugged original version.  No need to open your Castlevania cart(s)...

Edited by Dr. Morbis
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27 minutes ago, Dr. Morbis said:

Naw, if your game has the revised code to fix the bug, there will be an embossed 'A' on the label on the back of the cart.  On the other hand, if you have a 5-screw cart without an embossed 'A,' then you have the bugged original version.  No need to open your Castlevania cart(s)...

That's assuming that the cart has never received a back swap during it's lifetime. 

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1 hour ago, the_wizard_666 said:

That's assuming that the cart has never received a back swap during it's lifetime. 

Okay, wise guy, if he wants to be 100% sure he can open up the game and see if the prg chip is -0 (bugged) or -1 (fixed).  But that being said, 99% chance his game hasn't been backswapped... 😛

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53 minutes ago, Dr. Morbis said:

Okay, wise guy, if he wants to be 100% sure he can open up the game and see if the prg chip is -0 (bugged) or -1 (fixed).  But that being said, 99% chance his game hasn't been backswapped... 😛

And a 1% chance some dude swapped his 5 screw board into my 3 screw shell 😉 But that's okay, I was fine with it 😛

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My CV1 had the same problem (crashing on Grim Reaper 3+ times til I finally learned it was bugged). I thought only the Famicom re-release from 1993 fixed issues?  Mine is a 3-screw with the newer nintendo logo which seems like it'd be revised by then. I'll have to check my copy's back label for that "A", but I have it in a shadowbox since I got it signed by the composer.

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8 hours ago, Dr. Morbis said:

Naw, if your game has the revised code to fix the bug, there will be an embossed 'A' on the label on the back of the cart.  On the other hand, if you have a 5-screw cart without an embossed 'A,' then you have the bugged original version.  No need to open your Castlevania cart(s)...

 

7 hours ago, the_wizard_666 said:

That's assuming that the cart has never received a back swap during it's lifetime. 

 

Meow meow...be nice.

The only thing on the back is an old timey wide set of two numbers 01 (and that's it.)  And why would I back swap my own cart?  I bought it new back in the day when it came out or was gifted it, don't remember, but I've never let it go even in hard times when lots went a base of my old collection was going to end up in the trunk of a homeless guy if it came to it. 😉  I had created at the lowest point top lists for NES, SNES, N64, GC, and Gameboy stuff anywhere from a top 20-40(or 50) and everything else went to cover stuff.  I went from a few thousand pieces if you count ever game, magazine, handheld, console, accessory to that plus the minimum needed system/hookups/controls.  The only thing I ever lost was my castlevania2 manual, got one back in trade in the last 30days. 😉

So yes, that is an original, yes it's not tampered with, never been opened except a couple times for cleaning if that, may have used the Nintendo made kit.  So it's broken from factory, mystery solved.

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  • 1 month later...

Honestly don't see why people start jacking off over mint items. It's fun to devirgin a girl, but these are f'ing video games. I much prefer items that are in decent condition, yet have been knocked around a bit. They honestly look a lot better, aesthetically.

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On 4/29/2022 at 7:10 AM, Tanooki said:

 

And why would I back swap my own cart?  I bought it new back in the day when it came out or was gifted it, don't remember, but I've never let it go even in hard times whe

So yes, that is an original, yes it's not tampered with, never been opened except a couple times for cleaning if that, may have used the Nintendo made kit.  So it's broken from factory, mystery solved.

Did you expect that everybody here knows the history of your collection?

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  • 5 months later...
On 6/12/2022 at 11:33 PM, fcgamer said:

Honestly don't see why people start jacking off over mint items. It's fun to devirgin a girl, but these are f'ing video games. I much prefer items that are in decent condition, yet have been knocked around a bit. They honestly look a lot better, aesthetically.

Gosh, it’s been half a year since I last logged on..glad to be back, I guess?!

Just regarding this post, I think it’s important to differentiate collectors who collect items with specific criteria  (eg. certain franchises/companies/platforms/genre/rarities etc.); and there are collectors who collect for specific condition in their items. This thread is specifically for those who get orgasms when seeing the mint stuff. 

FWIW, I also get high on seeing rare authentic banged up items. 😉

 

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On 6/12/2022 at 10:03 AM, fcgamer said:

Honestly don't see why people start jacking off over mint items. It's fun to devirgin a girl, but these are f'ing video games. I much prefer items that are in decent condition, yet have been knocked around a bit. They honestly look a lot better, aesthetically.

I prefer sluts too.

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First print is overrated if you ask me. As a Canadian that often goes for the Canadian prints of games, I'm already not going for the typical first print. Generally I tend to prefer a version with the least bells and whistles attached to it too. Sonic Lost World is a game I recently played that's a good example of this.

The first print was the "Deadly Six Edition" that had a really ugly holofoil cover, and an ugly "Deadly Six Edition" logo slapped on the cover. The second print has the regular paper artwork with no extra logos attached. The Canadian second print of Sonic Lost World on top of just looking nicer is far less common than the launch edition, so I have a more desirable version than the first print anyways.

The same goes for Bayonetta 2, which I've been thinking about getting. Despite missing out on a port of the first game, I'd much rather get the single disc edition that came out later as its overall box design looks way nicer. Also by excluding the first game from the package, it focuses more around the Wii U's exclusive library. As someone who's focusing on the benefits of the Wii U and what makes it great, I don't want some old PS3 game in my Wii U collection. This is precisely why I'll never buy Twilight Princess or Wind Waker HD either. Those games belong on Game Cube, and should be highlights for Game Cube fans.

F-1 Race on Game Boy is a good old school example of this, as the first print shipped in a huge box with the four player adapter included. The player's choice version has the ribbon logo on the cover, but it shipped in a regular sized Game Boy box, which looks nicer with all of the other first party releases.

While I'd agree that first print copies have become a thing people consider when it comes to game collecting, it's never been accepted as the better option even in "most" cases. There are too many examples of the later print being more rare or worthwhile functionally/aesthetically that first print mania hasn't really become a thing. Unlike a lot of other hobbies, game collectors appreciate the ability to personalize their collection to a degree with all of the various releases.

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  • 2 weeks later...

It really depends on the game. If it's not a franchise where I variant hunt, I don't care what print it is as long as it's not an obvious re-release. As long as the thing is complete and box is serviceable, I'll buy it. I've gotten subpar boxes, but I do a little repair work and get it back to... normal... ish.

First prints are nice, but I don't want to pay a premium for it either. Minty boxes... also nice, but again, I don't feel like paying a premium just for a slightly nicer box. I'll take something slightly beat up, give it some love and put it in the collection where it goes.

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First print, near mint. Always sealed.

My first VGA submission was Dragon Quest XI for the 3DS. It was the limited first release sticker variant, and received a 95. That 95 drove me nuts, with me trying to figure out why it did not receive a 95+.

Long after I sold it (mostly thanks to the trolls claiming to be fans) I found a Japanese seller selling one that was graded a 90 for less than their 95. Despite their 90 was by far more rare. (This was a topic I wanted to bring up, but one or two members said some stuff that made me want to avoid it altogether.)

And when I tried CAS as an alternative (which my  suggestion of others try them out feeling like a joke, and not an idea)... I found that I am OK getting a game that is in the 85+ to 90+ range.

Plus the type of "first prints" I prefer tend to have a very limited run. So even if they are not bought to be graded, they tend to be an excuse for me to buy a second (or digital) copy later on. 🤠

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