yZoneFox

Yep, if you make over $20K and sell more than 200 items, ebay reports that. There's a specific tax on collectibles sold and the amount they appreciated since you acquired them (I believe that's the time frame). If anyone interested wants to dig into it, you can google collectible tax irs and you'll turn up pages on collectible gains tax / long term capital gains. I believe It's basically like the sale of a stock. This is in addition to the sales tax collected by states, which by the way, is why sellers get taxed even if the item they sell is bought by and sent to someone living outside the US.

It's up in the air who decides the ebay case. You can have great pictures and description. You can be a respectable ebay member with no negative feedback for decades. It doesn't matter. I've had ebay side with me as a seller and as a buyer--in both cases, I was telling the truth obviously. However, I've had a buyer return a completely different item. An ebay rep told me over the phone that the case would most likely be decided in the buyer / scammer's favor and that I would have to go through an appeals process following the money being taken from my account and the ensuing defects to my account. I was told that I had to submit a police report with the officer name and report number. I did this and within a day or two, the money was returned to me and the defects removed. I reported the buyer immediately after receiving the bunk return. That buyer is still on ebay, selling many items. Recent feedback shows as a seller, he / them sending people different items from what they ordered. I don't get it. Ebay's the wild west. It makes me mistrust all online transactions, but you gotta do what you gotta do.

You could probably ignore it until it actually stops you from hitting list item. I got the same warning and ignored it. Only months later did the activate button on their side screw me. Nonetheless, you should probably setup the relevant accounts and transfers since it's inevitable the hammer will fall. Wow, this topic went somewhere. If you guys didn't know, there's also a collectible tax which is a tax on items that appreciate in value. I wonder how many people actually fill that out properly. I'm not sure on the specifics such as what items are considered collectibles (like is it items over $200? $10K? or does value matter at all?), but considering how some people view these game items investments like stocks, it does make me wonder / worry, especially given the staggering appreciation over the last year.

I'm not an electrical engineer, but I do solder. Does powering a component with shorted leads like this chip or shorting contact points on a board break that component or the board beyond repair? I ask since I believe I shorted two contact points near the power in on a Sega Genesis. It could also be a bad power adapter. I had the system running for a couple minutes before I caught the power adapter creating the worst smell ever. I'm worried that applying power the system board with a new power adapter could break that adapter or testing another system with a possibly faulty power supply could break that system. The system had power, if I remember correctly (LED light on), but no video or audio.

The process is the same for figuring out fees. Ebay reports what you make - your gross. You will still have to deduct what taxes are collected by ebay and their fees. Once Amazon becomes a bank, that's it--game over. Use their 5%/3% credit card to double up on cash back from ebay and transfer money directly into your Amazon bank which you can use to pay the credit bill because you are a responsible adult who doesn't allow credit to pile up.

All things those kids care about according to podcasts. I'm not a lazy SOB. well most of the time. The $15/month fee is for the plus account. I aint paying jack for access to my money. Banks are real funny charging those fees. They get to hold your money and re-invest it for profit, yet they want you to pay a fee if you don't have a minimum deposit per month or some other investment?!

You misunderstand. I want money in Paypal. I have to do an additional transfer after ebay transfers it to a bank. Further, depending on the payment a buyer uses, that money can take longer to become available and send to your bank account. When Paypal, handled things, they allowed instant access to the money even though it wasn't done transferring, basically given you a loan interest-free. Once a payment clears using the new ebay managed system, it sends to your bank account within 3 days.

Can you give me the benefit of using this Aspiration card or clear up how you use it? Do you link it as a bank account where the payment gets sent instead of a brick and mortar bank? Are payments immediately accessible? Do transfers to other banks take a long time? I would like a TLDR; 1. 2. 3. 4. etc. benefit list as the stuff you stated is nice but doesn't really address my concerns (not meant as an offense).

I did the math myself. You have to do a lot of transactions for things to even out. It really depends on where the item is going because of taxes and / or international fees. In general, they take more. Again, it will depend on how much you sell and what the sale price is, but generally you could see fees taking 16% of what you sold. Before, directly via Paypal, it was somewhere between 11-13%. Since online sales tax became a thing everywhere in the (late 2019 in US), taxes were always part of the sold price, meaning Paypal collected a fee based on the total amount the buyer paid: sale price + transaction % fee + fixed fee of like 25cents + tax paid by the buyer. The tax was then remitted back to ebay for them to report on their IRS tax filings. You could deduct the taxes from your gross as ebay fees. If you didn't deduct, the government thinks you earned more then you actually did. The biggest pain for me is the roundabout access to money. It takes two weeks for me to have access to money the way I use it. That is, I want money in Paypal. Many commerce sites still offer Paypal as a payment option and it is actually beneficial to use it vs credit cards on certain sites. I have money going to a bank account, which can take 1-5 business days. I then have to transfer that money to Paypal. Since this change happened, I noticed transfers from that bank to Paypal taking 5 business days. Factor in weekends, and you're looking at two weeks for money to arrive in your Paypal. Prior to the change, for all intensive purposes, Paypal gave immediate access to the money even though the transaction between banks or whatever payment method the buyer used could take longer. Paypal was actually doing people a solid by essentially giving them a cash advance without fees.

Yes, I definitely agree with using active / powered switches vs passive. Quality is so much better. Also, manufacturer matters obviously. Am I wrong in stating RCA and JVC made some of the best analog switchers (composite, s-video, and component)? In my experience, I notice many of the active-powered switchers I owned by those brands do not affect quality of image or sound. I don't have experience using any of their RF switchers. You probably should use a different box for switching HDMI inputs. All-in-ones will probably sacrifice quality of the analogs. Also, the do everything boxes usually cost a lot more.

Has anybody ever tried products like http://www.snaptint.com/product.php?productid=16192 which are films that adhere to glass a la colorforms? I imagine a lot of frustration during installation due to flattening out air bubbles.

Even before the global shutdown and people getting money to sit on their duff, I first observed the increase in GB prices when the word genuine or authentic was introduced into the lexicon as a way of distinguishing items from the repro market. At first, I noticed these terms applied to GBA and DS listings, but then everything else started to use them. I even noticed the word authentic became part of the suggested search for games on ebay. The whole global meltdown, duff money only exacerbated the situation. I think price increases are a factor of people putting their trust into a seller knowing what they are talking about when they use authentic. I do notice some sellers do a better job at presenting their goods and sell higher than others (time vs money). Other less reputable or lazy sellers creep up their prices when they check the completed prices with stars in their eyes of potential $$$$ which in turn may make those high end sellers reevaluate their listing prices. The same goes for buyers. As long as people are buying at a price, people reset their expectations on what they will pay. I agree about the usage of VGPC and GVN for tracking history. I never believe the quoted loose, CIB, or new prices reflect the current market. I can type in the search bar on ebay to see that. There are some things which rarely pop up, and you could expect those items to go for more even though the last record may be from 2011 or not at all. I do believe that there are probably people who take those numbers as-is. I'm not aware of any sketchiness of those sites, but it you know some facts, then I'd like to see them. Maybe it's because I am unfamiliar with how these site record info, but I do find it amusing when people argue rarity of something being an R5, R7, etc. because that's what it says on Atari Age, Rarity Guide, or some other site. The only thing that matters is what people are willing to spend.

Majesco re-prints front labels have no sheen or glossy layer atop the paper sticker. The also don't have a back label at all, but instead have molded safety warnings like don't play SNES while taking a bubble bath. Further, Majesco labels have lower quality prints. They can have poor color, weird colored spots, and can be slightly blurry. If you are unsure of whether something is a repro, look up many pictures of authentic carts.

https://gbhwdb.gekkio.fi/cartridges/

XS Moto is a pretty hard to find box

It's starting to become a real hassle to buy physical media. There are great games being released physically but in limited quantities directly from distributors and publishers. I have no idea what PS5-onwards is going to look like, but it is totally going to suck buying used games for PS4 and Switch in years to come. Before games even come out from LGR, 8bit, the company with the dog from the Disney cartoon as their logo, etc., their values are boosted. The collector culture which has grown around games will most likely sustain prices longer. It used to be a game that was holding steady in the $25-50 area would be the expensive, hard-to-get games in twenty years. I find it hard to believe that these collector-oriented gamers are suddenly going to fire sale their bins of sealed LGRs or direct sales from Square, Inin, Natsume, or other pubs.

Toxic? Game Boy rares and CIBs have always been more expensive. Low stock and "disposable" packaging all boost value, if there is enough demand. I didn't think the production numbers were low from GBA onwards, but there are still very expensive and rare GBA games. I have a hunch that a lot of small things like Game Boy games get chucked in the garbage because 'these old tiny things could never be wanted or valuable'. You have to manually record prices over stretches of years to keep an accurate idea of what a Game Boy game was when it was last seen with its box or loose (like Toxic Crusaders or CHN releases). VGPC and GVN only capture so much. If you note a sale is missing, you can always contact the people who run those sites to add the data. When the games come up again in the condition you want loose, CIB, new / sealed, you then have to re-evaluate whether you care to wait possibly years for it to pop up again or spend the dough and be done with the waiting game.

You have no idea how many times I have run across this dilemma. An ignorant buyer insists that something is fake because of lack of research. It made me tense any time I sold something with a glop top like Tetris, Mario, or Splatterhouse 3. No offense to 85Collector, the purpose of the post was to find clarification, so you're doing the right thing.

I use DatoMatic for pics of boards on various platforms. Currently servers are down for some reason. It's pretty easy to tell a legit board and ROM vs a China bootleg. A database is nice, but you can build a working knowledge of what looks real vs fake easily by opening up and looking at carts. Also, remember: these databases are built by fans and not manufacturers. Are all variants documented? I dunno.

Legit. I looked up the board variant DMG-CPU-07 on the Game Boy hardware database and found a lot of pics of boards that look like this: https://gbhwdb.gekkio.fi/consoles/dmg/GH1906308.html

I was looking up Hudson's Help Wanted (Wii) when I came across this listing for promo merchandise and demo discs for Wii games: https://www.ebay.com/itm/202221822388 Does anyone know anything about these discs? Were they given away at events like E3, store countertops, shoved into the mouths of store kiosks, sent to people who detached and sent in registration cards--what is up with these demo discs? They're not rare and already commanding an ant's fortune. There are quite a lot of Hudson Wii games (maybe all except Mario Party) which have an associated demo disc from my brief search.

a Wata world. "Free" cash and free time has become law during these times.