SNESNESCUBE64

The answer is simple: you have a ghost problem.

Well I finally had time to assemble my power board and build the power wiring harness. It worked out pretty well, so I finally had this game booting for the first time in the cabinet. The only thing I had to do was add a cord cap for the light fixture because someone cut the end off. So here's what's left: Upright cabinet romset Controls wiring harness Art package needs to be made Finish ground wiring (almost done) Monitor adjustments One thing that I am a bit agitated about with my power setup, was that I decided to use the RT-125B, which was great because it has a 5V, 12V, and -12V. I used the -12V rail to make a -5V rail using a 7905 regulator. However, meanwell makes ANOTHER power supply that also includes the -5V rail built in: RQ-125B. So I might switch to that and make a new power board.

Because it's a meme and nobody wants to sell it for less than what they paid, so it only goes up.

I was wondering that too. Like who wants to fake this crap game?

Kamelot is cool. "When the lights are down" ane "Accross the highlands" are great songs. They are part of what really got me into power metal. I remember hearing a lot of them when I first got a pandora account in highschool. You are right, it gets kind of generic sometimes, but if it has a good beat to it no harm no foul. Power metal in itself is like 80% crap, but then you get absolute gems like Gamma Ray, Helloween, Primal Fear, Twighlight Force, Sabaton (I think they are considered power metal), Avantasia, Iron Savior, and Angra (of which I've been enjoying a lot lately). The gems are what makes the genre so worth it. Even some of the lesser bands are a ton of fun. I like Dragonforce for example, a lot of their music is cheesy but it is fun sometimes.

Not fake. That is battery backed (I think) RAM chip, not ROM. The base part number even matches what is on bootgod. LH5160 is an 8k x 8 SRAM (6264 pinout equivalent) made by Sharp and discontinued many moons ago. Exact markings are gonna vary a little depending on when it was made and which factory made it, but it is definitely not new. Furthermore I see no signs of modification on the board itself.

Not much of a fan of shilling for big companies, but walmart charges less for new games than gamestop. If your whole thing is saving money gamestop isn't the place...

The cabinet is now for the most part de-greened. It cleaned up a lot better than I thought it would and the cabinet is really nice. The parts I need to build the harness are now on order, so I will be able to hopefully build it that this week. I also have a monitor on the bench that needs a lot of work, that will be a separate post. I was able to mount the game board, so that turned out nice. I wanted to work on and mount the coin door, but the screws that were mounting it when I got it were not correct (phillips head screws vs metric carriage bolts). The worst part is that I know I have these carriage bolts, but they are in the coin bucket of DK Jr which I took to storage. So I will have to grab them later. I was able, however, to mount new coin mechs since the ones that were on there were just spray painted face plates. These are not Asahi mechs like the original, but they are clones of the old Coin Co Asahi-clone mechs (yes, clone of a clone) that were found on old gremlin cabinets (like head on). I have a goal to have every one of my large Nintendo coin doors to be in a different configuration with the return setup, return catch, and how many mechs per machine; so this helps.

I brought the cabinet home yesterday. So tonight I started the de-greening process. For this task I am using Citrusstrip, it is harsh enough to the green paint but isn't effecting the really sturdy blue gelcoat that Nintendo used back in the day. After 20-30ish minutes, the green was peeling right off. Residue was coming off easily with simple green cleaner after. It cleaned up really nicely. So far, this is just one side. I have a lot to do tomorrow, but I am hoping to be able to strip the other side and the front tomorrow. The front is going to be a bit tricky, but that is tomorrow me's problem.

I still use my rendition of the banner...

So I've started taking it a bit more seriously with the actual work. Ovee the weekend I crafted a new base for it as it was missing it's original one. I think it is a little shorter than the original, but I bought this lumber from the 70% off bin at home depot. It turned out just fine and matches the other nintendo cabinets. The next step is to start addressing the separation on the back. It is making the cabinet unstable and it needs to be fixed anyway. Some wood glue and screws should accomplish what I am hoping. Currently waiting for it to dry. The next step is going to be making the new bottom piece that is missing. I also mounted the coin area shroud.

So a couple months ago I picked up an empty RType cabinet. I got it for free because it was going to be thrown in the dumpster because of how much work it needed. It was as empty as a cabinet could be then some. It's not in super great shape with chunks missing. But I suppose it's a good opportunity to get it back to it's original condition. I identified it as an RType cabinet despite it missing the serial plate because the cabinet is an original black Vs system style cabinet (only playchoice singles and RType came in black) and it was lacking the holes required for mounting the timer display in the screen area.

If the Lions can't do anything this year they never will. They have a decent team and I hope the momentum from last year carries.

Yet another excellent choice with Hammerfall. You are 100% right, hammerfall just kicks all the ass. They are another one of those bands that have a little bit for everyone. They have some really nice slow songs like "Not Today" and "Glory to the Brave". My personal favorites are "Threshold" (my location on VGS) and "Life is now". "Hammer of dawn" is also super rad. I saw them live when they were touring with Helloween in America they put up a hella good show. Hammerfall/Helloween has probably been my favorite show up to this point.

I haven't gone to a ton of shows, but I am trying to make up for that by making them more of a priority when bands come to town. Jinjer/Breaking Benjamin/Disturbed was this past friday. Baroness and Dragonforce in november, can't wait. The one I'd kill to go see right now is Primal Fear. Their new album kicks ass and they are on tour. All their shows are international though. They have a couple in Japan, but they are happening too soon for me to realistically go.

I still think there are several people in that poll lying to themselves

Great choice. Mastodon has a such a good variety in their music. I truly believe that there is something for everyone in their discography. I saw them live last month, hearing blood and thunder live was one hell of an experience.

Sabaton kicks so much ass. Night Witches and The Red Baron are my two favorites by them. They were in Michigan not too long ago, but I missed my opportunity to go see em so I am super bummed out about that one.

Reading the manual is a requirement in the arcade/pinball scene and is typically the first thing I reference when I run into issues. It typically answers questions about the machines and many have the schematics. Some good manuals also have detailed troubleshooting steps and theory of operation. They are a good read. That said, there is absolutely no way 85% of people on this site read their video game manuals. Be honest!

Datasheet for the 161 It is a 74HC161, a binary counter with preset functions. Super common part used in a lot of applications other than nintendo cartridges. The datasheet has a pinout. Otherwise just google "74hc161 pinout"

Consider not sacrificing cartridges if you can. I've used these carts in the past and they were good. Muramasa also makes really nice repro pcbs. Regarding using CNROM, just use the correct board for the job. https://www.game-tech.us/product/reprox/ https://www.muramasaentertainment.com/product-category/new-cartridge-parts/nes-game-parts/nes-pcbs/

Are you using donors or are you purchasing boards like the ReproX? Better yet, maybe we can help you better if you tell us what you are trying to accomplish.

Never leave address lines on a ROM IC floating/unconnected, you may get some undesired effects. Tie it high or low. Thinking about it, I *think* Sumez is right, the only thing really effected is the CHR ROM which uses a 74HC161. Don't populate the 161 and tie the upper address bits that the 161 creates on the CHR ROM high or low and you should be good. Although, repro NES boards are a dime a dozen these days, just get the correct board for your application...

So I decided to change the scope of this thread. I am doing a full Head On N upright cabinet. Since fixing up the PCB, I aquired a Nintendo cabinet that had been converted (and LCD'd) to a 10-yard fight themed multicade (as well as a punchout project). It was originally a Donkey Kong cabinet, so it's time to turn it into Head On N with good ole fashioned original hardware (for the most part). The first step towards the cabinet was figuring out the power supply situation. The problem is that Head On N uses a power supply with -12V and -5V. Many power supplies used in arcade cabinets had one of those but not the other. To complicate things more, the original also provided a reset signal. I took a different approach to this one. I decided to make a proper adapter board that just fits in a modern switching power supply. For this I used a Meanwell RT-125B mounted to a Donkey Kong power supply block (which was missing it's original supply). The 125B is very reliable and high quality so it was a no-brainer for me to use. It provides a -12V line which I tap from and make -5V using a 7905 regulator. The reset signal is made using a BD47xx series power monitor IC. It should work just fine, but I haven't assembled it yet. I do know that my design fits the power supply though.

You forgot who Agumon, who literally became ambassador to the digital world...