SNESNESCUBE64

I've been fascinated with pre-donkey kong Nintendo arcade for a while. It started with picking up a Radarscope cabinet thinking it was an early donkey kong. After that I wanted to spend more time trying to find the really oddball stuff. Today's pickup is a bit interesting: original manuals and schematics for two of the their shooting trainer electromechanical games. I actually didn't know they were sold in America. Supposedly Sega distributed them. I've also acquired some of their older arcade titles. I've gotten most of the internals for Computer Othello. Not pictured is the power supply, harness, timer board, ect. Other than the table itself, I could put one together. I have some fun plans for these. And finally, my small Nintendo table collection. Pictured from left to right: Space Fever (color), Helifire, and Head On N. I love this earlier era of Nintendo and really hope to be able to pick up more of these earlier arcade machines. We will see how that one goes though.

I can but cannot accommodate the timeframe. I am unavailable the whole month of December and because of that I am a busy bee. The hard part is the deadline if you are spinning up your own stuff. I have a UNROM design for NES but I would have to have those fabbed. The hard part about using donor pcbs with unrom is that the NES mask roms used on that board are not pin compatible with the eprom equivalent. It becomes a nice big headache. Maybe look into ReproX, those boards support UNROM.

The secret is just finding 5V and ground. You can use a standard LED and a 330 ohm resistor (or something like that) to add an LED.

I had this happen once, I resolved the issue by hooking up an IR receiver and using a universal remote app on my phone to change it out of media mode. I don't remember the settings but it might be in this thread. The settings were probably in the old nintendoage thread. It can be done though.

I picked up a project off the side of the road: Atari Space Duel. Probably gonna do the restore next year.

Sold

I had this forever now, used it for displaying gameboy and DS games. The shelves in it are 3d printed since it was missing when I bought it. Lock mounts are also 3d printed. Asking $65, local pickup preferable (15 minutes or so north if Detroit, MI). I can probably ship it but expect it to be pretty expensive.

The plan is to install a millipede board with the multipede kit. I like millipede better too. I just gotta fix my millipede board first.

I got hooked up with a Centipede locally. It was in really good shape despite being really dirty. The work for this was super minimal. I got it playing blind, meaning that the monitor needed help. Unfortunately the flyback was bad, so that had to be replaced. After a recap and new flyback, the monitor was working great. After cleaning it up, it is probably one of the nicest machines I own.

I resolved the issue with the super rusty coin bucket. Used Evaporust to clean it up and then painted it with the same stuff as the monitor. From there, since it was freeplay I decided to put the step down transformer since that this game was intended for 100V inside the coin bucket. From there I just ran the wires through the coin slot. This is just a temporary setup until I figure out a better way to mount the transformer without drilling extra holes. I haven't had a whole lot of time to work on this one, I'm in the middle of moving so it's been busy.

I brought this cabinet home with me the other day. It actually works properly when hooked up to normal 120V instead of my truck.

Maybe, not sure what all that programs. At some point I will come up with means of reading and programming them. I could have replaced the bad one with a 2716, but I'd rather just condense all the roms down. That way I can do my modded roms as well. I don't really have much intent of substituting the rom board. If someone else ends up owning this table and wants to put them back, they will be more than welcome to.

A programmer that supports it. There are a few options, but they either require using an older (and often expensive) programmer or require using an arduino based one. I've used the arduino based one before but I've had a lot of trouble with it, so I am not a fan of it. What I want to do at some point is design my own, but I lack the free time to do such right now. I will just stick to my daughterboard solution. Makes it easier at the end of the day.

I fixed the graphics corruption issue. I was going to do this anyway, but figured I'd post it here. The bad graphics were caused by a slightly corrupted ROM. Because I cannot program 2708s right now, I substituted it with the same condenser board as the upright project. Gave me an opportunity to test my cocktail freeplay rom code on the real deal as well.

It was a pretty penny, but I was able to get this by selling extra arcade boards that I had fixed. So I was able to get it without any out of pocket expenses. Not something I plan on doing again any time soon...