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  1. Last repair from today's pile of Centipede boards. This one kept on resetting when it loaded the initial mushrooms. One thing I noticed is that all the legs on the ROMs were corroded, so first thing I did was clean them using TarnX as the legs were made from silver. Just as a note, the easiest way to tell whether or not the legs are silver are if they turned black from corrosion. Normal EPROM legs will not do this. Even after cleaning the legs, the game still would not boot, so the next step was to verify the ROM's contents. The way I do this is by using the ROM identification tool at arcaderestoration.com. The way this works is you upload the dumped ROM files and it compares them against what is found in MAME calculating the checksum. It should match up to something assuming the ROM is in MAME. All the ROMs matched a counterpart in MAME except for the one at F/H1. From there it was as simple as writing a new ROM. After writing the new ROM, the game booted up just fine! Solution: Replace F/H1
  2. This isn't going to be as much of a log, but I had a centipede on the bench with really quiet and distorted sound, it ended up just being a bad LM324 preamp at K10. The way I troubleshooted this one was literally by stacking a known good one right on top of the bad one. I did a little video to showcase exactly what I am talking about: Edit: just to emphasize how common of a failure this is, I worked on 8 centipede boards today, 3 out of the 8 had a bad/failing LM324. It's good to have a large quantity of these things lying around if you repair boards...
  3. This was probably one of the quickest repairs I've ever had. I got a pile of Atari Centipede boards I needed to test and get up and running, what's nice about that is that I can swap things around quickly. First board I looked at had corrupted graphics. The game was running just fine, but the sprites were all wrong. Some were fully corrupted and most were completely wrong. So with centipede, it has two 2516/2716 equivalent ROMs for storing the sprite data. They are located at F7 and H/J7. I noticed that one of the ROMs was physically damaged, so I changed that one first and saw improvement. Sprites were no longer glitchy but were wrong. Replacing the second had fixed the rest of the graphics troubles. Sometimes it really is that easy, ROMs are not difficult or expensive to replace, so easy and cheap fix. This repair only took about 5 minutes from first seeing it with corrupted graphics to seeing it working perfectly.
  4. ^ I'm wonndering if this thing needs the rest of it to work. Will that cart not work on a regular super nintendo?
  5. I love the energy you gave him. It's very wonderful!


    Both are curved tubes with composite input, does not have component and is nothing special. Hence the free television sets. I was going to use them as arcade tube donors but one I can't use and the other I is for a chassis I typically don't have.


    Free for local pickup in the metro detroit area: 2 medium res neotec arcade monitors (they need a bit of help, feel free to inquire) 2 consumer 19" crts They are off to the recycler if no one claims them by friday.
  8. Like the whole picture is turned slightly? Sounds like the yoke is physically turned by a little bit.
  9. The U2000/U5000/K7*00 series of monitors are some of my least favorite monitors to work on. They produce a nice image when working, but that's the tough one, they have a lot of flaws. For example, they drive the neck transistors really hard, causing them to get really hot and singe the neck board, which makes it a nightmare to replace the transistors because the traces pull right up. It also has a pretty flawed design with the vertical deflection circuit. The way it derives the voltage for the the 30V rail is from a winding on the flyback, however the problem is that sometimes that voltage gets too high and goes out of spec, burning up the transistor and sometimes components on the way. That where the problem with this chassis comes into play, it shows a classic case of vertical deflection failure. The first thing I did was replace all the electrolytic capacitors (all arcade monitors can benefit from a quality recap). I noticed that some of the capacitors were bulging out, which could imply failure or close future failure. Unfortunately, replacing the capacitors did not fix the issue at hand. After that, I checked the 30V rail, there is a super convenient test point right near the vertical deflection IC. When tested, it showed that it was receiving no power. Great, this narrows it down to R303, D302, or the flyback. First thing I did was check the diode since that was next in line, it tested as if it was a dead short (I could even see damage where it got hot), so it needed to be replaced. It is a cheap 1N4937 diode that I was able to obtain locally. While I had it apart, I also checked R303, and that had drifted far out of spec, so that needed to be replaced with a 2 watt 1.2 ohm resistor. I didn't have that on hand, so two 2.7 ohm resistors would be close enough for this. I made sure to raise these components up a little bit so that way if they go bad in the future it won't singe the board. For some reason it also had an extra resistor after the diode, it didn't really make sense and didn't belong anywhere in the circuit. The IC in the picture was just an extra deflection IC because I was about to replace that next. After replacing them, we finally had vertical deflection, and it was looking pretty nice. I also did some preventative maintenance such as replace R111, as that it looked like it got super hot as the coating was flakey.
  10. Super cool! I have one that is definitely an 8bit sprite and maybe a couple stretches. Bub The stretch: digimon sprites! Agumon Guilmon
  11. Pending Sale on KLOV For sale is my ms pac cocktail table I'm ready to work on the next project and I have to get rid of a game in order to do such for space reasons. Board has the fast version of ms pacman and the ROM mod for free play attract mode. Still has a little bit of corner damage (outlined) but is overall in good shape. More pictures available upon request. Asking $500, located in Metro Detroit in Michigan. Will be upstairs prior to your pickup and I can help load it up for ya. The following has been done to it: - ROMs, customs, and CPU have brand new sockets -game board caps have been replaced -new edge connector -new fuse holder -fully serviced G07 monitor -New Control panel overlays -new underlay artwork -new joystick grommets (the originals disintegrated) -new tinted glass as the original was aweful -new coin door chute covers. -new tmolding -new leg levelers/mounting brackets -new line cord -Control Panels and door have been sandblasted and repainted
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