SNESNESCUBE64

I've done PC Engines that did nothing without a recap. I'd double check to see if any leakage destroyed any traces as that is not uncommon for devices of that era. In terms of other things that could cause a lack of booting, I would be more suspect of the RAM and cartridge slot than the CPU. Try cleaning the cart slot with something like Deoxit or something like that. Make sure that you are providing enough power on your jerryrig as well, not the move I would have done, would have just sourced an AC adapter or properly hooked up to my bench supply using the DC in port.

Overflow equipment and stuff not on the equipment rack: ABI Chipmaster DIP IC tester (Recent pickup) Fluke 9010A with reproduction pods B&K 467 CRT tester with custom socket adapters Tektronix 1760 Vectorscope Dumont 190 20MHz transistor oscilloscope (Garage sale pickup from yesterday) Korean War Era vacuum tube oscilloscope (Garage sale pickup from yesterday)

Fancy microscope you got there.

I know ya'll fix stuff around here, show us what ya got to do it! Don't be afraid to show that messy bench of yours.

No thank you, today is my day off lol. If ya'll wanna catch up on what I have been doin, I got all sorts of logs already. Perhaps I should stop being lazy and fix things more...

Still have this thing, $700? On the fence? Ask me questions, I promise I don't bite! Want more info? Shoot me a message and I can show every inch of this thing. You can't hurt my feelings, make offers! Worst I will do is counteroffer or if we are WAY too far apart say no.

It was a good time, I am so glad to have been able to join and have the energy and motivation to play games with ya'll.

Bumping this, it would be SUPER cool if someone picked this up. A fully working one isn't easy to come by since the game hardware was supposed to be destroyed...

Another price drop. Would love to find a home for it.

This was a fun one. I have a whole box of these boardsets and I figured out which ones had working CPU boards, so I was able to immediately narrow it down to the video board. The initial problem with this board was that the board was doing nothing, just displaying a blue screen. Just randomly probing around randomly at the buffers going between the video board and the ribbon cables going to the CPU board. The overall goal was just to make sure that the two boards were talking to each other. I stumbled across H1, a 74ls245. The outputs looked really odd so I decided to just replace it. After replacing it, I was able to see the game! The only problem here was that it was missing ALL moving objects (Notice the guy doing the acrobatics is missing). The way hypersports works, is that there are two main sections in which graphics are generated (ignoring the parts that generate clocks and whatnot): Background graphics and moving objects. Down the line they are mixed together to create one full image. With this one, since it was just moving objects, I figured that it was either the data getting lost on the way to the mixing, the ROM/RAM is not getting activated, or there was a selection problem when mixing the graphics. The first thing I did was double check the ROMs were being activated and sending data out. With that verified, I double checked that the Konami 083 custom was outputting data to the color PROM. From there it was checking to see if the color PROM was talking, it was so data was at least making it out. This meant that there should at least have been SOMETHING on screen, so the problem had to be with the mixing together. Probing around with the enable and select lines of all the multiplexors and the buffers I noticed that the signals 512 and 5̅1̅2̅ were always stuck low and high respectively. That is super odd as this is clock signal used for selecting these. Tracing it back I ended up at B4, which was a 74ls74, a dual flip flop. Looking at the signals, it was getting acting as it was supposed to, but the problem was that it wasn't getting a valid data input. Moving to the next part of that flip flop, I noticed that it wasn't getting a clock, which is not correct here. I traced it back to B3, which takes the 1H and 4H signals and makes a clock out of them. It is always activated so it should be doing something as long as the inputs are valid. Both 1H and 4H were toggling appropriately (they really should have been if I was getting anything on the screen at all as these are timing for video), but there was no output. This was our culprit. After replacing it, we got our objects back! After closely looking at the graphics, this board was all set.

The beanbean kingdom and the mushroom kingdom are in the same world. Mario and Luigi get to it via bowser's battleship or whatever. Same with Princess peach who traveled there via plane. It would be like saying Isle Delfino is its own world when Mario and friends just travel there. Perhaps I am missing the point... Perhaps I am missing something, but what is Video Game Masters vs. The League of Darkness?

First time that I've ever worked on a Gyruss. I have to say, the fact that it had any custom ICs at all kind of intimidated me a little bit. I am not the best when it comes to video issues, but is something I am working on getting better. But anyway, this was a pretty straightforward repair. So the problem at hand was that there were no moving sprites at all. Text would appear, but nothing that moved. This is great because it really helps narrow down the circuit. After doing a bit of research online, I found out that there was actually a test rom, which ended up making the repair even easier. What was nice about this, is that it was only adding one additional ROM in an unpopulated socket at J14. After burning the ROM and populating it, it showed that RAM 17C, all the between 11A and 14A, and the ROM at 19E was bad. This is a bit suspicious, because that implies that nothing is working at all with the sprite engine, you would think something would be working. Looking at the schematic, all the data gets sent from the main Z80 CPU to a Konami 501 custom IC, then through a buffer to the 17C RAM and beyond. Here's the problem, I don't have an easy way to verify the 501 is working other than checking it's signals. Everything looked fine as far as I can tell with the outputs of that, so I shifted focus to buffer at 13E (a 74ls245). Looking at the signals on my oscilloscope, I could see that it was getting all the signals but a few of the outputs were stuck low. That was awfully suspicious as it really should be toggling. After socketing and replacing 13E, the moving sprites were all back! Great to know that it was the issue tying everything up. I've never played Gyruss before, it was really fun and I wouldn't mind owning one of these cabinets in the future.

I just stumbled across this thread, but this is probably why I have ear ringing lol.

Price drop. I can do trades for arcade related items!

Make sure you got 5V at the logic chips. If you don't, make sure power is getting in at all. That power plug is a failure point and can be prone to cold solder joints, make sure that it is solid and that the regulator is getting power. If it is and the regulator is functioning correctly, then start checking the ICs onboard. There are three of them, 6810 Bipolar RAM, the TIA chip, and the 6507 CPU. Last time I had a major chip failure, it was the TIA unfortunately, I verified by swapping with a known good atari. You can get the TIA from best electronics, but you are gonna pay a pretty penny. Unfortunately with 2600s, they aren't worth a whole lot so the really expensive ICs are kind of a turnoff.

Check your connections in the backbox, those connectors get dirty after a while, these data east games also are known to have power board problems. I know some of the fuse holders are paper thin and the holders should be replaced. Some of those connections also get super burnt due to bad connections and cold solder joints, I would make sure they are all in good shape. That might solve some of your "warm up" problems. I've also had to replace caps on a couple of those...

The conversion to LED is SOOOO worth it. If you color it out correctly, it really makes everything pop, plus the added benefit of not having to change bulbs. Congrats on the first machine, they are a lot of work but once you get everything taken care of, they are so much fun. Data east games are some of my favorites, I hope to have a Data East Jurassic Park one day.

This one is complete and comes with the key, demo game hardware, and even a couple demo discs. I repaired the monitor as it was having sound issues like most of these kiosks, so everything works on it. Even comes with a couple custom 3d printed mounts for amiibos that go on top, but does not come with the amiibos. I am planning on moving in the nearish future and would rather not take it with me but will if I have to. Asking $700 or (partial) trade for arcade related stuff. Looking for Donkey Kong Jr, Popeye, or even an empty Nintendo cabinet. Also looking for an original bubble memories F3 cartridge (Not a conversion). Would do straight trade for a Bosconian or battlezone cabainet. Cabinets don't have to work or be perfect, it would just effect the trade. These are local pickup in Metro Detroit, Michigan only, cash and carry. I will have it arranged to get this up my stairs and into the garage before pickup BEFORE you pick it up assuming you give a couple days notice, otherwise I will ask for help.

This was a quick fix as I've seen this issue before. So I was working on a Data East Laser war pinball machine, and some of the flashers were stuck on. This pinball machine just had all of its bulbs replaced with LEDs, so realistically there shouldn't have been a problem. There were also several stuck on so it was more than just a bad socket or a wiring issue. I identified the bulbs as the following: Flashers are driven by the solenoid circuits, so it seemed odd that the flashers were for solenoid drivers 6, 7, and 8. Looking at the schematic, I could see that the ones in question all had a warming resistor. What a warming resistor does is that it provides a current to a bulb that is less than what is necessary for it to glow. The idea is that it makes it a little bit quicker to warm up and flash than it would be from a cold start. This can be represented by the highlighted resistors below: LED bulbs do not need these warming resistors as they require not only a lower amount of current to flash but because they are LED they turn on much faster. Not even all the flashers have these warming resistors as I pointed out. The solution here was literally to just remove the 660 ohm resistors from circuit. After removing them, they turned off as they should and even flashed as they should.

How else can he be that cool?

Remember the thread where we talked about what we will do with our games after we are done collecting? My answer for this thread is the same as the other.

Counting all the assholes in the room, well I'm definitely not alone...

Bump, lowered prices a bit. Always happy to field some offers

Yet another Donkey Kong boardset that boots to garbage. This one was a bit more interesting as there were two main problems with this board. Whenever the game does not boot, I always check the ROMs and make sure that the game can read the ROMs if I can check that. The ROMs all checked out good using my programmer, so now it was time to check to see if the game board could read them. The way I check is by using a Fluke 9010a with a Z80 pod. What this does is it emulates the Z80 CPU and allows me to run troubleshooting, such as ROM and RAM checks. To check the ROMs on Donkey Kong, you are going to need to run checksums on the address range of 0000 to 3FFF. Attached are what the checksums should commonly return, a different rom set will return different values, but these are the most common for this type of board. After verifying all of the ROMs and that they could be read with no issue. The next check was to check the CPU RAM. There are six 2114 SRAMs (1kx4), resulting in three pairs of two. The way they work on Donkey Kong is that they are set up in pairs to form a full 8 bit bus since the 2114 only stores words that are 4 bits wide. They are separated into the upper and lower bits, the lower being D0 through D3 and the upper being D4 through D7. Often times when these fail, the data will be messed up for only one. While running through my RAM checks, I found that there were two RAM chips that had actually failed: 3C and 4B. After replacing these, it now passed all of the RAM tests, but it still wasn't booting. It looked like it was actually resetting while trying to display part of the title screen. What was weird about it was this is that nothing looked out of place with any of the control signals, so I ended up doing some research and found that the TKG4-14 has a watchdog circuit (I believe that's what it is). One way to disable this for testing is to cut the jumper CR3. To my surprise after cutting the jumper, the game booted up! After probing around, I found that pin 5 was actually floating. It ended up being a problem with C164, that cap had tested open, the watchdog was always activating. After replacing it, the CPU board worked exactly as it should. One new capacitor and two new RAMs and this game is now back in working order, on to the next DK!

Bump, added a buncha stuff. I will be adding more later.