TylerBarnes

Wow, this is unreal. I wonder if some people are going to actually attempt to unironically use the new platform.

The frustration, or disappointment rather, more comes with the low numbers to go around to begin with I feel. 60 doesn't seem like it's doing the band or fans justice. Maybe round 1 and 1.5 of sales can fund a larger production round 2?

No I understand. I've been on the other side of the coin, where my favorite band released a re release vinyl (my favorite record) without a exact release date and I wholeheartedly just wished they had a for fans on email list pre-release or something to get them in the hands of fans and not re-sellers. I've had to pay those $400+ prices on ebay several times for records that mean more to me than any price tag.

Yeah, It is kinda disappointing, but it's the way it goes. I'd rather they make sure actual fans are getting them first. But yeah, saying 10am EST and everyone setting alarms to find they had zero chance is frustrating. I'll be holding out, but I just hope there is an accurate announcement for the round two.

Early bird sales to fans sold them out before launch. Oh well. They claim a second round will come.

Looks great! also I didn't know the ol' tag system carried over from NA. How does one get the red [Homebrew] tag on topics?

Agreed. Kickstarter is certainly a great marketing platform bundled with a way for people to pre-order. Having a completed project and using Kickstarter to fund the production costs is an obvious and suitable choice. If you think about it the only real cost are production. You don't have to pay anyone to be able to code your game, so you can technically code for free and finish it 100% before you ever need to worry about fronting or collecting any money to manufacture physicals.

WOW! I want in for sure. Where are these being sold or pre-ordered? Link?

That is awesome! I love that they even have this sort of award. Culture is obviously an important thing for them.

I guess this venture may technically count as trading and selling games, so I've created a feedback thread.

Titles says it all really. Feedback goes here. Thx ^_^

I love how your first instinct was to take it apart and check which rupee you got, lol. Also great stuff! Cool to see you’re finding all the secrets

I play bass. Here are my beauties. And here is one in action:

Some professional CRTs will require you to terminate any unused outputs. You will know you need them if your image is very bright, and the picture controls don't fix it all the way, or they do but need to be adjusted to one extreme or the other. This is fixed by either using the output, or putting a dedicated 75Ω terminator on the output jack to simulate the 75Ω load that using the output would normally yield. Terminators come in little BNC plugs that just cap off the unused outputs. I recommend getting some, cause they are cheap and you may need them. Many PVMs have auto terminating outputs, while a lot of BVMs need termination added. There are many exceptions to the rule, so just check the tube you end up getting by putting a terminator on and comparing if the brightness is the exact same as it is without or not. If it is the exact same, you likely have an auto terminating output. Another indicator is auto terminating outputs often have the schematic symbol for a resistor next to the output to tell you there is termination resistance on it. Some may even have a switch to toggle termination on and off.

A strong distortion plus a concentration of odd colors all in one area, could also point to needing a stronger degauss. The internal degausser usually does a good job, but if it is weak and also trying to fix an area that was heavily magnetized, it may be enough. There are bigger, and beefier external degaussers, but sometimes it's not worth it unless you know that model you get will do the job, or if your issue is actually due to a degauss issue. As far as working on a live CRT. Just know it is incredibly dangerous if you doesn't know what you are doing. Even when the CRT is off, there is a deadly charge inside. I'm by no means an expert, and further education is recommended if you plan on doing anything inside one. Videos are usually ideal. If you have the correct geometry adjustments on the scan type you use (normal, underscan, overscan) you can find a compromise using two adjustments that can help cancel each other out slightly to focus in on one area. For example what I would do on your case is adjust the U/L Pin and adjust it outwards until the top right corner and top left are symmetrical. (They will not be straight.) This is a global adjustment so you are also affecting the bottom. to counteract this you can use the Low Pin Amp to bring back the lower section to more or less where it was before. (again won't be perfect). It's mostly about making the adjustments you are comfortable making and living with the imperfections for adjustments you are not able to make (re-capping, convergence, purity, etc) So if you would rather live with one really dodgy corner as apposed to fixing it slightly while making the other one slightly worse, than leave it as is.

Customer and Technical Support Supervisor for an RC car company.

For a corner specific issue that the geometry settings don't fix, convergence strips will have to do. they are incredibly finicky and it is pretty nerve racking if you are working on/near an open tube. My suggestion is if you try to add a strip or two, your goal should be to just get it better than it used to be, because very strong distortions are hard to fully fix with strips. Any broad stroke changes you make will introduce other deformations to other parts of the image. One compromise is change to overall size of the raster area seen with the vertical and horizontal size control. This will cutoff more picture to the overscan, but hide the deformation more, and as a result give you the slightly thicker scanlines from effectively zooming in. Calibrating these things are most the time all about finding that suitable compromise.

I am right on the border at Legacy and 75, driving through Allen to McKinney for work everyday.

I was thinking about this the other day in fact. Wanted to try my hand at it. At any rate can't wait to see what people come up with

Club DFW! I'm up here in Plano!

Makes sense for some strict or big companies to limit access to unverified sites. My site is basic and the demo page tries to run flash, which many firewalls don't like.

I have no idea if it will run on PAL. I don't have a PAL machine or know the compatibility, but there should not be any difference between the carts or the code required to boot. It's just the frame rate as far as I know. So, if it does boot and play it will be like 16% slower than is should be because of the 50Hz PAL standard vs the 60Hz in NTSC.

Most the cables you will find out there interface to each other with SCART. it's like the Liaison between the formats. So PVM side has a BNC to SCART, this scart being the input, then the consoles all will have their own specific RGB cable you have to hunt down and buy. Most are the console's connector into scart. Although some with go straight to BNC. Many prefer the scart cause you can have a SCART switcher to just plug everything into and select between the consoles you want to play. There are BNC RGB switchers too, but they are usually rack mount broadcast gear. If your cable is RCA but a supported format you can get those very affordable little RCA to BNC adapters. I leave three of them constantly on my setup that runs most my Component stuff. This whole site will have some very good info if you wish to dive in more ^_^ https://www.retrorgb.com/rgbmonitors.html As far as models I own and can recommend for a little corner setup, I like my little 14" Sony PVM-1351Q. It is my only 14" that supports Component. Note though, there is a version without the 'Q' in the model number that does not support component.

regardlessofwhichsideofthedebateyoustandonIhopewecanalllookpastourdifferencesandgetalongasahppyfamilyIloveyouallandrespectyouropinionsaboutsuchaninterestingbutultimatelytrivialtopic

Yeah, locally is definitely ideal if there are people that have them to save from the expensive and risky shipping process. I see some on craigslist every now and then. Sometimes in a lot of other non professional gear, which is nice since they usually don't know what they have.