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Analogue N64 Console


WalterWhiteJr.

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4 hours ago, Gloves said:

 

 

Actually, I exclusively use my CRT for playing games with my Analogue consoles. The answer is you purchase a DAC which supports all* Analogue consoles.

*except the Pocket Dock, despite it having said it would be supported at launch

Technically the DAC doesn't support the Nt or Nt Mini either, but both of those consoles had a DAC built in, so that didn't matter.  

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2 hours ago, TDIRunner said:

I'm definitely excited, and I will almost certainly get one.  I'm a little surprised by the name.  I understand not wanting to use "64," in the name, but "3D" seems a bit generic when they will almost certainly make another 3D console down the road.  I'm surprised they aren't going with "Ultra Nt."

I would have guessed they would call it the Analogue 64, but Ultra Nt actually sounds better.

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On 10/16/2023 at 4:45 PM, Code Monkey said:
  1. I will pay whatever this costs.
  2. They better make a shit ton of controllers.
  3. I hope they change the controller from the tripod design to a more traditional design. Or simply make a controller they will use for all post-N64 systems going forward and package it with everything.

If they want 100% compatibility then they will have to make 3-prongs. People may not like it, but it's what shipped with it, and it's what it's supposed to use. Sure, the hori mini is a very good controller, but it doesn't have a great D-pad position, and more importantly, the stick won't do for all games. You can't just use a potentiometer stick for a 64. Some games it will work fine with, but if you're trying to play F-Zero X or Goldeneye then you can just forget it. The pot stick doesn't have enough resistance, doesn't have a long enough travel, and it can't easily be held at a set position for a long time, all things that are unique about the OEM stick, and which are necessary for proper play of some games (another example is the fishing minigame in Mario Party 1).

For me, I heard years ago about kitsch-bent and their aftermarket N64 joystick parts. I have a few sets and I have swapped out at least one OEM controller using them. Yes, it does go away from being brand-new tight over time, but when it gets too bad then you can just put another set in. They're mass-produced plastic, so it's not like it's a huge ask to buy a number of sets. I'd recommend just buying 64 pads in acceptable condition, cleaning them, and replacing the joystick parts.

Maybe someday those steel sticks will be real, but I'm not holding my breath. Things might as well be unicorns.

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Administrator · Posted
2 hours ago, RegularGuyGamer said:

I don't know why they would have to make new controllers when the Retro Fighters exist. 

https://retrofighters.com/our-collection/brawler64-nextgen-n64-controller-colors-v2/

Unfortunately they suffer from stick drift. I was super into mine until it started drifting horribly. Taking it apart and cleaning it, lubing it up, etc. did not resolve the issue.

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Events Helper · Posted
18 minutes ago, Gloves said:

Unfortunately they suffer from stick drift. I was super into mine until it started drifting horribly. Taking it apart and cleaning it, lubing it up, etc. did not resolve the issue.

not to mention the sensitivity is that of a gamecube controller, not an n64 controller.  imo the things are garbage.

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13 hours ago, koifish said:

If they want 100% compatibility then they will have to make 3-prongs. People may not like it, but it's what shipped with it, and it's what it's supposed to use. Sure, the hori mini is a very good controller, but it doesn't have a great D-pad position, and more importantly, the stick won't do for all games. You can't just use a potentiometer stick for a 64. Some games it will work fine with, but if you're trying to play F-Zero X or Goldeneye then you can just forget it. The pot stick doesn't have enough resistance, doesn't have a long enough travel, and it can't easily be held at a set position for a long time, all things that are unique about the OEM stick, and which are necessary for proper play of some games (another example is the fishing minigame in Mario Party 1).

For me, I heard years ago about kitsch-bent and their aftermarket N64 joystick parts. I have a few sets and I have swapped out at least one OEM controller using them. Yes, it does go away from being brand-new tight over time, but when it gets too bad then you can just put another set in. They're mass-produced plastic, so it's not like it's a huge ask to buy a number of sets. I'd recommend just buying 64 pads in acceptable condition, cleaning them, and replacing the joystick parts.

Maybe someday those steel sticks will be real, but I'm not holding my breath. Things might as well be unicorns.

None of that requires the tripod controller configuration, you can still do all of this after rearranging things around to a more standard layout.

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Administrator · Posted
18 minutes ago, Jeevan said:

not to mention the sensitivity is that of a gamecube controller, not an n64 controller.  imo the things are garbage.

I pretty sure they use the same stick manufacturer as those "GameCube stick upgrade for n64 controller" sticks you can buy on Amazon, so that checks out. 

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1 hour ago, Gloves said:

Unfortunately they suffer from stick drift. I was super into mine until it started drifting horribly. Taking it apart and cleaning it, lubing it up, etc. did not resolve the issue.

I have a launch model and never ran into problems however I only use it a handful of times a year. My wife is obsessed with Mario party so I refuse to let her sacrifice any more original controllers to the MP gods 

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I personally find the brawler to be great but know Jeevan hates it. I’ve never ran into sensitivity issues or drifting and used it for goldeneye, World is not enough, Doom, Conkers, Banjo 1, Rogue Squadron and a few others I can’t remember that require sensitive movement. You need to get the wired version though.

Does it beat an original with a great stick? No way. But it’s the next best thing and I love the layout of it.

2 hours ago, Jeevan said:

and if it is, rebuild with kitsch bent parts 🤣

That’s great if you live in the US but shipping to me is $30usd.

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Events Helper · Posted
1 hour ago, Brickman said:

I personally find the brawler to be great but know Jeevan hates it. I’ve never ran into sensitivity issues or drifting and used it for goldeneye, World is not enough, Doom, Conkers, Banjo 1, Rogue Squadron and a few others I can’t remember that require sensitive movement. You need to get the wired version though.

Does it beat an original with a great stick? No way. But it’s the next best thing and I love the layout of it.

That’s great if you live in the US but shipping to me is $30usd.

order 1 million, then it will be worth it!, or just stop living down under 😉  But maybe there is other stuff you want from the u.s. and can ship to someone like, i dont know, me?  

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1 hour ago, Jeevan said:

order 1 million, then it will be worth it!, or just stop living down under 😉  But maybe there is other stuff you want from the u.s. and can ship to someone like, i dont know, me?  

1. 😂

2. Hell no!

3. I have thought about it in the past but there’s nothing I want from the US right now. This will most likely be my choice if I ever do.

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8 hours ago, Code Monkey said:

None of that requires the tripod controller configuration, you can still do all of this after rearranging things around to a more standard layout.

I forgot to mention, the other problem is that some games or parts of games use the less common Left/Center hand positions, by which I mean, they use the D-pad and the joystick. I know a number of Bangai-O nuts who refuse to play it any other way, to say nothing of other games that use this configuration (I know they are a small list, so small that I really only remember Bangai-O and the games that let you choose it as an option, but they are not zero). Though let me be clear that I embrace a "use the pad that works best" style, like I wouldn't recommend original pad for Doom 64 because it uses all 3 shoulders; The hori mini is easier for that since it has L, R, and Z all easily reachable at once. Still, it is playable; You won't find a game that is incapable of being properly played on an OEM 64 pad, because it is what the system was designed for and what devs had to work with and had to target as the default. Because of the inherent differences, you will inevitably find games or parts of games that cannot be properly played on more traditional controllers.

My second advice beyond kitsch-bent parts is to get OEM pads but have nice backups. Don't rely on "just one" for 64. But, if Analogue has to use just one, and if they want true 100%, then they will have to cope with this fact. That, or make it a dual-stick controller where both sticks are the same input, just on opposite sides, so you can use any combination of d-pad, stick, and button. But that still rides on my point above about needing the true 64 stick over a modern pot stick.

5 hours ago, Brickman said:

I personally find the brawler to be great but know Jeevan hates it. I’ve never ran into sensitivity issues or drifting and used it for goldeneye, World is not enough, Doom, Conkers, Banjo 1, Rogue Squadron and a few others I can’t remember that require sensitive movement. You need to get the wired version though.

Does it beat an original with a great stick? No way. But it’s the next best thing and I love the layout of it.

That’s great if you live in the US but shipping to me is $30usd.

I'll ship to you if you ever need it. We can trade; I'll send you a few dozen K-B sets, and you send me some jars of vegemite. And yeah, I would stay in oz right now too!

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1 hour ago, koifish said:

I forgot to mention, the other problem is that some games or parts of games use the less common Left/Center hand positions, by which I mean, they use the D-pad and the joystick. I know a number of Bangai-O nuts who refuse to play it any other way, to say nothing of other games that use this configuration (I know they are a small list, so small that I really only remember Bangai-O and the games that let you choose it as an option, but they are not zero). Though let me be clear that I embrace a "use the pad that works best" style, like I wouldn't recommend original pad for Doom 64 because it uses all 3 shoulders; The hori mini is easier for that since it has L, R, and Z all easily reachable at once. Still, it is playable; You won't find a game that is incapable of being properly played on an OEM 64 pad, because it is what the system was designed for and what devs had to work with and had to target as the default. Because of the inherent differences, you will inevitably find games or parts of games that cannot be properly played on more traditional controllers.

My second advice beyond kitsch-bent parts is to get OEM pads but have nice backups. Don't rely on "just one" for 64. But, if Analogue has to use just one, and if they want true 100%, then they will have to cope with this fact. That, or make it a dual-stick controller where both sticks are the same input, just on opposite sides, so you can use any combination of d-pad, stick, and button. But that still rides on my point above about needing the true 64 stick over a modern pot stick.

I'll ship to you if you ever need it. We can trade; I'll send you a few dozen K-B sets, and you send me some jars of vegemite. And yeah, I would stay in oz right now too!

Someone outside of Australia that likes Vegemite! I’m shocked. You must have been taught the proper way to put it on bread 🙂 

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Events Helper · Posted
4 hours ago, koifish said:

Been a long time since I had it, but I was made aware of the importance of eating it with bread. But in all seriousness, feel free to PM me if you want help getting some parts in, I don't mind lending a hand.

same @Brickman aka shmupy boi wolf boi for life!!!!!!!

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I've tried using those "modern" N64 controllers, and they work fine for games where you never developed any type of muscle memory.  But unfortunately, I can't use them for games like Goldeneye which is sort of disappointing, because I bought one specifically to play Goldeneye like a modern FPS.  But I was completely unable to play the game, so I just had to revert back to an original controller.   

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