koko

Sorry for the lack of updates, I'm a high school math teacher and spare time since the start of September has been hard to come by. I recently got a repro marquee and some replacement peg board though. I hope to put in some time this thanksgiving weekend on replacing the pegboard and painting it black, the old board was too damaged and theres no way I could scrape the white off without demoing the entire board. It's going to get cold here soon so I still want to get this pretty much done before the really cold weather comes by the end of November, I don't want to be working on this in my basement nor do I want to leave this in my cold garage all winter. Will post some pics of the replacement sign sometime soon.

I would take anything honestly, it's probable they used the same lights in different cabinets and mass ordered them. This one is the M18G cabinet, I posted the section from the World of Nintendo order book at the very top. Someone else here posted scans of all the WoN stuff you could order, it was crazy the amount of variety they had. They had multiple different cabinets where you could get different variations of it, so it's always hard finding comparision pics on the net as there are so many different types and styles of cabinets out there. Any help would be appreciated.

Worked at it again over the past couple of days. I cleared off the front bottom and the rest of the left side. I plan to lay the cabinet on it’s back on a makeshift table to make it easier to get at everything so I will finish the bottom edges at that time along with the rest of the base. I'm hopeful I can keep it all original minus the sign unless I come across one some day. Laying it down will allow me to try and repair some water damage on the bottom stand, and let me sit while I work on the sides and top black panel doing some deep cleaning with a razor, pin and scoring driver used on sheet metal. All three give me a little variety in scraping out the bits from the grooves. The left side looked less ground in than the right so I thought it was be easier. Man, that was so wrong, it was caked on and sticky. I did about 3 hours of cleaning to get most of the remaining big paint off, using some vinegar heated in the microwave to help loosen some areas. It worked surprisingly well, and didn’t seem to mess with the plastic but it cooled off very fast and lost it's latex removing ability when it did. I'm not sure why heated up it works so well. I’m going to try and remove the doors as a next step to help get at the peg board inside and so when I lay this on it’s back the glass won’t possibly shatter. Having it on it’s back will allow me to go along cleaning while sitting trying to get the paint out of the ridges on the side. My wife offered to help out of pity, although really she has cleaning ocd and I think it will be therapeutic for her and a good couples project. I’m also pretty excited, I ordered a replacement marquee off a gentleman that came recommended from a few other collectors. He sent me some pics for comparison and it looks good, better than anything I would realistically be able to do myself and should be here in a couple of weeks. If anyone has pictures of the light strip inside, model, etc, it would help a lot, it's a random request but I've had problems finding clear pics online as there are loads of pictures of the half glass, half cabinet display but not many of this particular one especially inside.

A small update, finished the sides and bottom inside. Worked more on the left but for whatever reason the paint is really sticking into the textured part inside the ridges, it’s going to be a bit of a tedious nightmare going along and picking it all out but I think I’m going to lay this on it’s back on a makeshift table to be able to sit on a stool and go along working. I hope to finish up the major paint by the end of the weekend. After thinking it over I will have to leave the peg board, I’m not sure how I can get a new piece already painted in without disassembling the front, I thought about trying to bend it a little, and it appears the black plastic where the marquee goes is partially glued in place up top. I’ve got an orbital sander I can use to cleanup inside then I’ll have to carefully paint with a roller. Using spray paint probably won’t end well. So much of my time has been trial and error not wanting to permanently damage anything if possible. I've also worked out a deal with someone for a repro sign, so that should complete things once it's all clean.

Thanks, some people won't care about this project but I also know some people enjoy restorations and my hope is this might give readers something to look at while having a coffee lol. I also wanted a place to put down my journey in case someone else runs into a similar situation and so I could document for myself the progress. It's been a rough go so far, many many hours of tedious paint removal by hand, I've actually had dreams where I'm scraping paint out of the textured plastic. The progress I made today gave me hope as its starting to look a little more like the end product and I'm getting close to being done with the major paint removal, after which comes the base, peg board and second wave of fine paint removal which has me the most nervous. I have a lead on a repro marquee, fingers crossed that pans out as a finishing touch at the end.

Today I worked a little more on the left side but eventually choose to change it up and chip away inside after about an hour of dealing with the side ridges. In the end I decided to try and restore the insides rather than paint over as the white paint came off easily from the veneer/laminate whatever the material is. I scraped the entire right side, and in doing so discovered the production tag covered by the paint as a cool bonus. Its feels like I’m an archeologist uncovering long forgotten secrets. I also noticed I should be able to scrape off the bottom as well. I think after this project I’m happy to never scrape paint again. Almost getting to the point I can paint the base and do a lot of fine scrubbing. The peg board is in somewhat rough shape and while the paint does indeed come off, it’s slightly damaged in some places. It looks like the board was painted black rather than having a covering so some of the black paint was chipping off. I’m leaning towards getting replacement peg board from Home Depot and cutting it to size, painting it and putting it in to give it a cleaner look.

Started on the left side, some parts of the paint peeled right off easily while others were ground in. I took the back off to get the wire shelving off. From what the seller mentioned it was what they had used in the store, I know the pictures in the catalog I’ve seen have game holders so the games face forward but the racks are grey and red so it’s possible they are what the store used when the cabinet was removed. If anyone knows how the doors come off drop me a line here please. I took a look again and it appears the back and the sides inside the cabinet are covered by a black laminate, I can’t decide whether it’s worth scraping the paint off inside to keep it original or if it would just look better and be easier to sand and paint. Decisions for another day.

I did a little more work on this the past few days. I tried a few paint removal products on a hidden area, and anything stronger than rubbing alchohol was a no go, including citristrip I got off a buddy. At first I thought rubbing alchohol left a white haze on the plastic so I was hesitant to use it to clean the white specks, but after clearing more paint off the cabinet it appears the white haze is from the latex paint slightly leeching into some parts of the plastic and was there right when the paint was removed. I will have to see if a gentle magic eraser scrubbing will help later but if that doesn’t work it is what it is and doesn't stand out unless you start to look closely. I tried a bit of alchohol on the front black top but it appeared to remove some of the black finish. I’ll probably have to painstakingly remove those bits with a pin as it looks like the person did 2 coats on it. There’s paint buried deeply in the grooves which will be an adventure to remove and after maybe I can hit it with some pledge or plastic wax to give it a slight shine again. I'm going to leave the top until I come back around to clean up all the smaller bits later on after all of the major paint is removed. Starting to at least resemble something now, the ridges on the sides have been a nightmare so far though and I'm hoping the left side paint peels off a bit easier.

I’ve spent about 10 hours so far, going in I knew it was going to be real tedious but it’s unlikely I would have been able to get one of these if it was great condition. Too many deep pocketed collectors in my area and these never come up locally. I like the restoring part, it’s like saving a piece of history

More progress today, getting close to being finished with the right side. Once all the major paint is off I need to scrub to get the small residual paint flakes off and the residue from the latex. Looks like there was some sun fading slightly up top covered by the paint. I also started to take a look inside to see if I could chip off the paint from the sides inside, the black paint is shiny and the white seems to come off easily. E

Spent a few hours removing paint today. Tested out both sides to see which would be harder. I think this was put on its side in a truck at some point as I could see the scrapes in the paint from the bed and what looks to be paint from the truck itself. You can see it in the pics above. Started with the right side as the paint had be pushed into the grooves of the plastic from the weight of being on its side. I used a mix of soap and water and popsicle sticks to scrape the paint. If anyone knows any chemicals that will dissolve the paint but not the plastic let me know. Will need to go back later and take out bits of paint left, but for now I wanted to tackle the main removal. This is going to take a while.

Anyone have one to sell/trade or know anyone that can do replacement marquees for the top?

Well, got my project off the seller tonight, in all it's glory. It's going to take a long time to get off all the latex paint, at least it chips off relatively easy on the vaccuum formed plastic and other than the paint and base that needs a replacement its in relatively decent shape. Here is what I'm aiming for

I've started a display restoration below chronicling my adventures in removing what appears to be an entire can of white latex paint from a World of Nintendo M18G display. Update: I found someone that makes replacement marquees, so it appears that I just need to get lighting. If anyone has pics of the inside lighting please drop them below, thanks.

https://archive.org/details/wii-u-kiosk.-7z This is all I could get without gaining access to the root folder. The whole hard drive is 250gb, this zip is 42gb. If theres anything in there that is interesting or helpful to my kiosk please let me know.

Currently uploading to archive.org

Scanned some side art from my Wii Kiosk for a discord server I'm a part of. Decided to upload them here for anyone that lacks side art for their Wii Kiosk. These are the little cards that go on either side of the console in the plexi holders. If anyone has scans for a Gamecube Kiosk please let me know, I've been looking for years for some art for my kiosk.

If anyone has a spot that can hold a 42gb zip file, I can upload everything I was able to pull off my hard drive on my demo unit as I recently found the USB drive I had it backed up on. It has a bunch of demos and other stuff that is beyond me but maybe someone can make sense of it and let me know if anything is useful in general or for my demo console.

I have been trying to figure out a way to get the external sound to work with a replacement TV in my snes kiosk. It works perfectly with the scart cable that came with the kiosk, but because the monitor is toast there was no video. I ordered a red/white audio in adapter to Euro scart, then another euro scart to jp-21 adapter off of the retro gaming cables website. My idea was to have the audio going to the board, but leaving the yellow video free to go to the TV. Got it all hooked up, no sound, hooked the scart cable back up that came with the kiosk perfect external sound. Anyone have any thoughts, advice or other solutions they have found?

Yea I had tinkered with it last summer but I didn’t really have a spare 200Gb hard drive to copy it into. There’s about 150gb or so of demos, videos and firmware for the demo unit and what looks like an old interface to use the silver box as a stand alone unit by itself. I upped a good chunk of it for people to mess with. At some point down the road when USB sticks are cheap enough I’ll grab one to copy it to unless I come across a spare hard drive somewhere in my house. Other kiosk projects just have me a little tied up at the moment.

I was too scared to try it out fearing it might spark or catch fire. Going to test it outside just in case and if nothing bad happens I’ll plug it into the kiosk to see if there’s any picture at all.

I posted about this is in another thread but completed one of my collecting goals recently. Finally got it all cleaned up and shiny.

I swapped out the shells from the controller arms as they just looked gross. I couldn’t keep them on it, although I did keep them in a box. I don’t plan on ever selling this but if it ever comes to that at least the next person has the option to put them back on if it really matters to them. One of the top buttons was broken anyways. Got the reset, speakers and sign all in working order. It took me about 4 hours to clean off the brown goo from the inside of the sign. I used isopropyl alchohol to break up the goo, soap and water to gently wash it off then windex to get rid of the streaks. All done with qtips and holding my breath that I didn’t scratch off the black powder. It turned out well and is now clean for another 30 years. I just need to figure out how to convert the DB9 video cord to RCA to use the internal speakers with the external tv. I still have the original tv but it’s broken beyond repair, I might keep the shell though for another project.