koko

Just a quick update, I’ve recently replaced the back peg board and have cleaned the inside sides of the cabinet. The peg board is more black than it appears, it’s just the lighting from the pictures. I used some isopropyl alcohol to get off the white specs left over from the cleaning inside. The black is faded a bit from the white latex paint (needs soap and water also) so my options are going to be repainting close to original maybe with some rust oleum satin or semi-gloss, I have another WoN cabinet I can match or try and restore the shine of the melamine. The back is clean and ready to be put back on as well.

Sorry missed the replies as I had shelved this project for the winter/spring as life was busy. I’ve got some free time coming up so I hope to finish it off in the next month or two fingers crossed. As far as the sign, it was a repro made by someone, I think he logs in here from time to time. I can give you his info if you message me. It turned out ok, not perfect but 100% better than anything I could have done. I just need to figure out a way to mount it. I looked at the tracks and there are no cutouts for the doors to come off, it appears like they slide them on the tracks maybe before putting on the sides. I tested out some nice black satin paint for the replacement peg board, it turned out really well better than it looks in the pic. I will probably have to end up painting the inside sides and base after finishing a deep clean, it’s not ideal but I’m thinking some matte black would be similar to the vinyl covering in finish. I’m also debating painting the sides Nintendo grey and repainting the plastic where the marquee sits with the black satin as well. The white paint really did a number on the finish everywhere and while painting won’t be the exact as original it would at least look original and allow me to finish the project. It’s somewhat like classic cars, some people are ok restoring things with replacements or painting, some people want it with original material. At this point I just need to finish it to move on to other projects.

They are a little bigger than the Sega bit, I tried the one I have. It seems like they are the next size up, I saw some info that it might be a line head machine screw but I haven't been able to find any kind of line head screw driver.

Recently picked up a Super Famicom box from Japan. I need to open the sides to change the battery inside but they have these oversized security screws. They are similar to the snes and genesis carts, but slightly larger. Anyone know the name of the bit that will remove them?

I actually had to use a saw to get the board out, due to it being such a tight fit from when they built it. Ignore the mess, I'm also rearraging things downstairs, I have project ADD sometimes. Earlier today I cut a new piece of board, it fits perfectly. I just need to paint it black as it was supposed to be, satin black I believe and get it screwed in with a new centre bar made from what looks like 1x2 oak, then reassemble the back. I might take the time to strip out the white paint at the top inside before I fasten the peg board as it allows much easier access due to the fact I can't figure out how to take the doors off. I need to think about how to hang the new sign as well, along with whether to repaint the black marquee holder. The sign came out pretty well from the seller I got it from, way better than I could have done.

I’ve been concurrently trying to finish another project along with this getting a bit side tracked, another World of Nintendo cabinet with a totally gutted top. It came without any shelving, light, diffuser at the top and missing the sign but otherwise in good shape. I’ve cut some new plastic diffuser, added a light in and ordered some hooks with $5 glass from ikea for the new shelves, placing some random stuff to see what it looked like. Just need to actually organize it and all this one needs now is a marquee. I’ve moved the M18 cabinet inside as it gets much too cold in my garage. I spent the time the past two days removing the damaged and ruined peg board. After taking out all the painted screws on the front I discovered it was glued with wood glue down the centre frame. There was no way to remove the peg board out the back anyways with the centre piece in the so out it came.

A lot of collectors have most or sometimes all of the games they are after by this point, so going after something else to collect seems natural. Combine that with some collectors having extra cash from not going anywhere due to covid and it would make sense. There's way less supply of signage, so supply and demand and at the moment there's big time demand.

Picked up some bulk stuff from a local collector, 173 Xbox 360, 4 ps2 and a couple Xbox. I’m going for a fullish 360 set and I needed a bunch. Can’t decide whether to skip Kinect games, at about 700 so still a ways to go.

Picked up this semi new in box launch Xbox 360 neon, it’s the larger 36” version. Came with shipping box, instructions and launch card that hangs at the bottom. Ends look like the power button, was happy.

A little late to this post, but check discord. There are some that have the pi software that goes on the micro ds card, you just plug that in. Nintendo updated the pi's and shut them down so people didn't touch them due to virus concerns. Discord has the original pi versions that play the original version software 1.0 which has a game list and videos, and there are also some images of newer versions of the labo stuff.

There aren't many on ebay, who knows what the future holds. There could be a pallet still sitting somewhere in a warehouse but allegedly they were ordered to field destroy any in stores. They couldn't put naked women in the recall, so people were told the disc didn't work and there might be problems with the microphone if they wanted to return the game. I can't imagine the shock any parents might have had if their kids loaded up that song. Someone dumped the iso so it's easy for anyone to checkout. It's just a singing game though, and wii full set collecting is a daunting task so will anyone really be interested in it?

It’s pretty easy to spot in the game, grab an iso, use dolphin and play the video. It was only out for about a week or two. Here is the recall: ”error in product assembly”

I was having a discussion lately with a friend and we were trying to think if there were any Nintendo games from any era that had explicit or suggestive themes Nintendo wouldn't approve of. There were the NES unlicensed carts and the Lets Sing 2016 boob recall fiasco, other than that were there any other games that were on a Nintendo system that they would count as too sexual? Both instances above were not something they were happy about as it went against their brand and they had no control over, any other games slip between the cracks? It seems like some of the newer JRPG's on the switch might push the boundaries. I've included a pic from NA when Lets Sing got recalled in case no one knows what I'm talking about.

I'm assuming the OP is talking about collections that have been named because of the number of sealed games they contain i.e. Indiana, Hawaii, Atwood etc. They talk about these collections in this article https://www.watagames.com/learn/blog/post/the-atwood-collection/ Wata seemed to even name the collection the sealed, slabbed games came from in their grading.

My version has the speakers on the side at the bottom for 4 total speakers on the kiosk. There is a volume inside next to the timer. Unfortunately the knob inside doesn’t lower the volume to zero, you can still hear the sound even with it down all the way. It makes sense I suppose as the store would never want the kiosk muted.

Definitely worked out well Just have to find a way to be able to mute it for silent play for when the kids are playing. I think running an extension out the back where the audio can be disconnected for muted play is next. I also want to eventually put a reset button in for the console outside so a flash cart can be used and anyone can just reset the cart by resetting the console without having to lift the plexi and risk snapping it. Those are future problems though, I'm still struggling to find time to finish my current 2 display projects lol.

Yea my board does not have the RCA outputs on the back of the A/V board. When I was looking for a way to hook up a small crt after my monitor died, I saw some boards had them and was pretty discouraged lol. If you still wanted an S-video setup without modding anything, the way I did mine should work fine for you after getting a standard s-video cable for the back of the SNES. Video goes straight from the SNES to the TV, audio red/white goes to the kiosk board with the adapters. I guess technically you could also use an HD Retrovision cable for component if a TV had it, which would be comparable to RGB as well. Here is the adapter if I recall correctly after some searching: EuroSCART to Japanese 21 pin JP21 adapter ntsc rgb21 (retrogamingcables.co.uk) Super nice guy to work with. Just message him if you go this route to make sure. It's been almost a year since I've tackled this project and the RCA adapter just had to be reversed, output/input.

Correct. So in theory, every regular snes cable is useable, RCA or S-video, which bypasses the issues of the special cart cable entirely. It keeps the kiosk and tv's totally stock, and all cables are just stock cables as well. All you need are the adapters which are plentiful from any chinese seller on ebay. The only tough thing to find is the JP-21 to Euro adapter which I got from a UK seller. I just had to desolder and resolder a few pins to reverse the connection on the RCA adapter. It took me 2 minutes with zero soldering skills.

Forgot to do a follow up. I had to rewire the RCA adapter to reverse the output input direction as the one I bought was red/white out rather than in despite what the sticker says on it. It all works perfectly now, so the audio goes to the kiosk, while the video to a small 13" tv making the TV interchangeable on the kiosk if it ever dies in the future. This setup can work with any regular SNES cable, RCA, s-video, Scart w/audio breakouts or HD retrovision cables if a small TV has component inputs. You don't need to worry about the special scart or DB9 cables the kiosk comes with as well as they are bypassed. I'm not an expert, just a lot of fumbling to find a solution so there might be a better way I just never found it. All in cost me $40 for the 2 adapters, the retrogaming one being the bulk of that. Link to the Euro to JP-21 adapter EuroSCART to Japanese 21 pin JP21 adapter ntsc rgb21 (retrogamingcables.co.uk) Any RCA adapter will do as long as you can open it to rewire the connection if needed. It took me 2 minutes with no solder skills. This will probably work as well for the audio in hindsight, but I never tried it. Switched SCART to composite video adapter (retrogamingcables.co.uk)

If you do what I did, you can use a regular S-video cable, and just run the red/white audio to the kiosk. It requires an RCA to Euro adapter that just needs a rewiring, then Euro to JP-21. It would be the same setup I did, but instead of the yellow RCA running to the TV you would have the S-video cable while the audio goes to the kiosk to come out the external speakers. I forgot to do a follow up but it works perfectly now. SNES Kiosk - using external sound with replacement TV - General Collecting Discussion - Video Game Sage At least this is what I think you are trying to achieve unless I misread.

That diagram helped me a bunch when resoldering an RCA adapter so I could hookup the external 4 speakers to the kiosk but still run RCA video to my small 13" TV I use after my monitor broke.

Replaced the acrylic at the top. I was pretty nervous about chipping it when cutting, I think it came out really well and looks pretty nice. Just need some lighting and a marquee at the front. The cabinet fit nicely beside the GameCube kiosk, there was exactly 4 feet next to it, although I had to remove a shelf and rearrange some stuff.

I took the metal off, at least it’s still relatively nice underneath.

If you ever get a chance please send a pic of what the top looks like. I assumed there was a top on the outside but I don’t see any screw holes and I’m not sure how the fluorescent light would sit.

I don’t need another project, still painfully working on a M18 cabinet, but grabbed another nice condition cabinet locally last night, just missing the sign at the top but it came with 2 locks and the key. The previous owner said his son brought it home a year ago but it never moved from the garage. I’m not sure I’ll ever find the original sign so I’ll have to look into a reproduction. Does anyone have a picture of the top of this cabinet? What kind of lighting did it have, was there ever a top part and what went in the big space at the top inside, I’ve seen white sheets in others to diffuse the fluorescent light. It also came with this steel plate at the bottom of the base, I’m assuming it prevents someone from popping off the glass doors. Is it worth trying to take off, did that come on anyone else’s? Any help is appreciated.