oops

I had a sealed mario rpg with a toys r us r’ zone sticker. This is a metal foil sticker, the kind most people would not attempt to remove.

I decided I would like to try to remove it. I started off with a good fingernail (if you don’t have one, wait a few weeks)

I got the majority of the sticker off and was left with some foil that left behind, glue residue, and cellophane stretch marks.

after using goo gone and more fingernailing I had the sticker completely removed but had still stretch marks on the shrink wrap.

I made a cardboard heatshield so only the shrink wrap area that was stretched would get heat, i tried a hair dryer but couldnt get it to shrink up. Maybe with a heat gun someone could have better luck. I decided to try a lighter and magic happened.
 

I assume there is a fine line between magic and oh shit there is a hole in the plastic so I recommend not trying if you are not confident, also i would avoid putting a lighter anywhere near a factory vent hole as it may grow much larger.

I’ll leave this thread with some photos so you can see the results yourself.

hopefully this will help someone with a similar situation. I am sure some people are perfectly happy leaving stickers on aswell especially for the nostalgia.

ive always liked qualified

6 hours ago, Bearcat-Doug said:

I have no words. My words have failed me. Wow. Just awesome!

relax man

Just now, RpgCollector said:

I have a 100 or so sealed games and none of them graded. Thinking about making a video of me opening a sealed Gameboy Amazing Tater and lowering the value by a a few thousand! 

ill trade you my cib copy

12 hours ago, snk2d4ever said:

What's the grade?

80+

I am ready to cash out on this sealed ducktales.

should I send to wata (already in vga) and then heritage. or sell on ebay?

Because a box that is used gets wear on the flaps that will show through the cellophane also dirt and stains get trapped underneath the wrap.

trust me a not perfect box would be the FIRST tell of a reseal. 

Like i said that you ignored, The fakes are detectable. People promise perfection and rarely deliver. There will always be tells. Fakes already exist, fakes may get better but im not worried about perfect fakes anytime soon this doom and gloom topic has been beaten to death since I’ve been on forums its not something new. They were making fakes the same year the games were released and yet 30+ years are yet to match it.

Even comics are found in walls/basements/garage sales with no providence and people can examine and determine if counterfeit. I wouldn’t be able to tell a real from fake comic but someone can. Same goes for video games.

Not saying it can’t be done but there are so many collectibles that say they are easily faked and yet nobody can do it.

first for a perfect reseal opportunity you need a perfect box which means faking a perfect box, and then you have weight issues and other tells. I mean its not like its impossible but people are just not as good as delivering as they claim (trust me i work in the trades, people always promise perfect results)

if you open it you will have somewhere to keep the receipt, of course the value will be dropped but thats the price of convenience

how was it technically private? was it not through heritage auctions? a public auction house?

Did I hear SECOND print? pfft piece of garbage

also “its really hard to tell it hasn’t sold on the open market” didnt it sell for 100k on the open market?

3 hours ago, Andy_Bogomil said:

Seems like a lot of SNES CIBs have actually cooled lately. Appears to be a bit more selection and the prices are leveling out or even dipping a bit.

I havent seen this at mint level yet but I can only hope

Like bronty said, the corners are the best place to start, they need to be pointy and also not poking through the cellophane.

you want to light check the cellophane for scuffs, scratches and blemishes, the light check is a good time to check for box dings/dents and creases aswell.

you should check to see the cellophane is making contact with the box an all 6 sides, any spots not in contact often indicate box damage some minor box stress may not be totally obvious but you will notice the front/back is concave.

look for sticker glue residue aswell.

the more you inspect sealed games the more you will pick up on damages.

there is no way to be certain of a grade it will get in vga but you should be able to distinguish between low tier and gold grade very easily.

thats a shame, we could get there with all boxes one day

53 minutes ago, doner24 said:

Personally I value it at nearly $0 due to fakes. 

im talking about legit ones

2 hours ago, attakid101 said:

Do you got one...?

yeah my copy came with one

where do people value the blockbuster case for this?

Test equipment and carts, the service industry has limited supply and is rich in history. and enough supply to keep people interested but not flood the market.

Nice score Nesmaster, the sealed Lady Sia is especially nice.

here are my pickups from this weekend.

does anyone know the value of a snes miracle piano complete in box?

Super mario world

donkey kong country 3

and nhlpa 93

test carts and equipment are the next hangtag

what about turbo cd?

i paid $115 for mine but not new. it saw a spike shortly after. seems crazy to pay that to me but if you must have it