Jump to content
IGNORED

GBA board pics thread


 Share

Recommended Posts

I actually just needed some verification on one game, but I figured maybe we could start this up into a thread for requesting board pics. I’ll update this main post with a spreadsheet if we start getting a bunch

 

Darius R. AGB-E03-20 R-6

Star Wars Trilogy. AGB-E03-20 A-3.

Edited by phart010
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wanted to do a board swap on a non-working copy of Darius R. It is AGB-E03-20 R-6.

image.thumb.jpg.d91b4f3b98d2ef558c4ad253938cb159.jpg

Im planning to use Star Wars trilogy as the donor board, AGB-E03-20 A-3.

image.thumb.jpg.914be119434cc89b1819a29e2f87f889.jpg

Will this work? Also noticed some solder on the R2 and R1 pads on Darius... is my board missing components that should be bridged across these pads?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, phart010 said:

I actually just needed some verification on one game, but I figured maybe we could start this up into a thread for requesting board pics. I’ll update this main post with a spreadsheet if we start getting a bunch

 

Darius R. AGB-E03-20 R-6

Star Wars Trilogy. AGB-E03-20 A-3.

Would this at all be helpful?  I found this site earlier today and it's like the bootgod thing for the NES.

https://datomatic.no-intro.org/index.php?page=show_record&s=23&n=0787
 

Maybe you can cross reference the board on this site and find a cheapo beater to use that is compatible.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the A-3 and R-6 are just batch numbers. But I'm not too sure so don't quote me on that lol. The boards otherwise look identical. The solder blobs are just unused pads. The Star Wars board (presumably an earlier batch going by the "batch number") didn't get the solder blobs and the contacts were left exposed whereas the other one got them probably to resist corrosion. Or maybe it just depends on the factory and manufacturing standards.

If you're interested I'd be happy to try to fix the game for you on its original board. But if you want to do a swap I don't have the necessary equipment (heat gun mainly). Corroded contacts can be repaired by putting a thin layer of solder over them to prevent further corrosion.

Also, if you do end up swapping boards I suggest swapping the eeprom chip too so that the save files don't get messed up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
On 11/30/2020 at 8:48 PM, bowser said:

I think the A-3 and R-6 are just batch numbers. But I'm not too sure so don't quote me on that lol. The boards otherwise look identical. The solder blobs are just unused pads. The Star Wars board (presumably an earlier batch going by the "batch number") didn't get the solder blobs and the contacts were left exposed whereas the other one got them probably to resist corrosion. Or maybe it just depends on the factory and manufacturing standards.

If you're interested I'd be happy to try to fix the game for you on its original board. But if you want to do a swap I don't have the necessary equipment (heat gun mainly). Corroded contacts can be repaired by putting a thin layer of solder over them to prevent further corrosion.

Also, if you do end up swapping boards I suggest swapping the eeprom chip too so that the save files don't get messed up.

I got around to doing the swap today. I’m an amateur at soldering so it took like 3 hours 😂😂😂

I used a heat gun and lead solder paste. Practiced by getting the chips off of Star Wars. When I got the big chip off of Star Wars I accidentally knocked the component at C1 off of its pad. Almost lost it, it’s super tiny. It’s so small you can’t even tell which side was soldered to the pads. I finally said screw it and just put the thing on there. I think it’s on there upside down, but it works. Don’t know if they are bi-directional or if I just got lucky.

A267B241-EB57-4302-A3B5-E918C1C2FD18.thumb.png.187644dbac81c38520e07d2b6425d92f.png

The bigger chips are much easier to work with. Just don’t use too much paste, it’s incredible how little paste you need. I actually over did it with the really big chip and had bridged connections everywhere, so had to removed it and carefully wick it all up. Then the second time my pins weren’t aligned with the pads 😩😩😩.

Finally in the end I got it working. The game actually played without the EEPROM. I tested it before soldering that one on. 
 

Now I’ll take a break from soldering, that was hugely frustrating.

9E83278D-D1CF-42F2-9CF4-9F403EEFDE76.thumb.jpeg.b230a17717183e039ee2941499d9236d.jpeg

Edited by phart010
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share


  • Welcome to VGS!

    Play, Make, Collect.

    Here at VGS all kinds of gamers are welcome, and that includes you!

    Join the conversation!

×
×
  • Create New...