phart010 | 1,707 Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 (edited) I actually just needed some verification on one game, but I figured maybe we could start this up into a thread for requesting board pics. I’ll update this main post with a spreadsheet if we start getting a bunch Darius R. AGB-E03-20 R-6 Star Wars Trilogy. AGB-E03-20 A-3. Edited November 30, 2020 by phart010 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phart010 | 1,707 Posted November 30, 2020 Author Share Posted November 30, 2020 I wanted to do a board swap on a non-working copy of Darius R. It is AGB-E03-20 R-6. Im planning to use Star Wars trilogy as the donor board, AGB-E03-20 A-3. Will this work? Also noticed some solder on the R2 and R1 pads on Darius... is my board missing components that should be bridged across these pads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bowser | 598 Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 Wouldn't it just be easier to fix the broken trace? I've recently resurrected several games like Paper Mario, Dragon Warrior III, Pokemon Crystal, etc. In each case it was just a matter of finding and fixing the broken trace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phart010 | 1,707 Posted December 1, 2020 Author Share Posted December 1, 2020 That may be the case here, but some of the pins on Darius are kind of corroded also. It’s not so apparent from the photo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanooki | 4,933 Posted December 1, 2020 Share Posted December 1, 2020 5 hours ago, phart010 said: I actually just needed some verification on one game, but I figured maybe we could start this up into a thread for requesting board pics. I’ll update this main post with a spreadsheet if we start getting a bunch Darius R. AGB-E03-20 R-6 Star Wars Trilogy. AGB-E03-20 A-3. Would this at all be helpful? I found this site earlier today and it's like the bootgod thing for the NES. https://datomatic.no-intro.org/index.php?page=show_record&s=23&n=0787 Maybe you can cross reference the board on this site and find a cheapo beater to use that is compatible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bowser | 598 Posted December 1, 2020 Share Posted December 1, 2020 I think the A-3 and R-6 are just batch numbers. But I'm not too sure so don't quote me on that lol. The boards otherwise look identical. The solder blobs are just unused pads. The Star Wars board (presumably an earlier batch going by the "batch number") didn't get the solder blobs and the contacts were left exposed whereas the other one got them probably to resist corrosion. Or maybe it just depends on the factory and manufacturing standards. If you're interested I'd be happy to try to fix the game for you on its original board. But if you want to do a swap I don't have the necessary equipment (heat gun mainly). Corroded contacts can be repaired by putting a thin layer of solder over them to prevent further corrosion. Also, if you do end up swapping boards I suggest swapping the eeprom chip too so that the save files don't get messed up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phart010 | 1,707 Posted January 22, 2021 Author Share Posted January 22, 2021 (edited) On 11/30/2020 at 8:48 PM, bowser said: I think the A-3 and R-6 are just batch numbers. But I'm not too sure so don't quote me on that lol. The boards otherwise look identical. The solder blobs are just unused pads. The Star Wars board (presumably an earlier batch going by the "batch number") didn't get the solder blobs and the contacts were left exposed whereas the other one got them probably to resist corrosion. Or maybe it just depends on the factory and manufacturing standards. If you're interested I'd be happy to try to fix the game for you on its original board. But if you want to do a swap I don't have the necessary equipment (heat gun mainly). Corroded contacts can be repaired by putting a thin layer of solder over them to prevent further corrosion. Also, if you do end up swapping boards I suggest swapping the eeprom chip too so that the save files don't get messed up. I got around to doing the swap today. I’m an amateur at soldering so it took like 3 hours I used a heat gun and lead solder paste. Practiced by getting the chips off of Star Wars. When I got the big chip off of Star Wars I accidentally knocked the component at C1 off of its pad. Almost lost it, it’s super tiny. It’s so small you can’t even tell which side was soldered to the pads. I finally said screw it and just put the thing on there. I think it’s on there upside down, but it works. Don’t know if they are bi-directional or if I just got lucky. The bigger chips are much easier to work with. Just don’t use too much paste, it’s incredible how little paste you need. I actually over did it with the really big chip and had bridged connections everywhere, so had to removed it and carefully wick it all up. Then the second time my pins weren’t aligned with the pads . Finally in the end I got it working. The game actually played without the EEPROM. I tested it before soldering that one on. Now I’ll take a break from soldering, that was hugely frustrating. Edited January 22, 2021 by phart010 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now