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buttheadrulesagain's Achievements


Peasant (1/20)



  1. I just learned to use the Video Game Price Charting collection tool, and I like it. Unfortunately one of my rarest items is not even listed there (the one in the title). I was wondering for how much it has sold in the past, loose or CIB. Does anyone have any info on this? Regards and happy holidays!
  2. I suppose your arcade panel has a Jamma connector. I don't see how to make my adapters compatible with your panel. The Tototek ones are playstation controller to SNES, GENESIS and 2600. The retropad takes most controllers as input, PC keyboard and 8bitdo wireless, but not Jamma. Only if you somehow convert the Jamma connector to pc keyboard maybe it'll work.
  3. If what they did here is representative of their business, then I consider them a scam. For 300 dllrs and supposedly saying they are selling a fully refurbished system, I would expect they used the right kind of screws, clean the system and games thoroughly, use a controller repair kit, and a full recap.
  4. Which consoles do you have? And do you plan to add more?
  5. The Ultimate II+ is great, cycle accurate so it will run everything, even without fixes, and even sounds like a real driver and floppy. I have an original 1541 but sadly it came broken.
  6. It is an amazing monitor. I got it from a medical equipment supplier for 250 dollars, 1 year warranty and all. Best purchase ever. Having RGB for all the consoles is a PITA, but it's worth it. Fortunately a found a modder that has made a great job with them (he had never done RGB mods, so I took a risk there ). I made a mistake by choosing JP21 vs EuroSCART cables, some stuff is harder to get, and until recently there was no SCART switcher for JP21. The Axunworks switcher solved that issue and it takes both formats simultaneously. Analogue is nice, but I hate how their stuff is so scarce. I'd go for MiSTerFPGA instead. Way cheaper than go all original hardware, and you get the same performance mostly, but that did not exist when I started.
  7. Haha, that's all I have as my mancave (more like a Man-wall :v ).
  8. As a lot of people here I suppose, over the years I have set my goal to play games in the most authentic way possible. People here are used to play in original hardware, which is a must for accurate experience, but I have set my goals further. I present you my setup as of today. General overview: I got 14 distinct consoles (plus the M82 which is mostly for shows), everything is contained in an original NES M82 stand up kiosk, and 2 towers with glass shelves. I chose them on what I think are the most representative and with the best game libraries. Original PlayStation, first model. It both plays original games and ISO files from a PSIO (ODE). Connected via RGB cable for video. N64 with Expansion Pak, RGB modded. Hacked Wii late model, outputting component video. "Breadbin" Commodore 64, outputting SVideo. For games and programs I got the Ultimate II+ Cart, which is really a FPGA floppy/cart and tape emulator. It emulates special carts, has modem and more. For controller input it has a PlayStation controller adapter. New PSU by Ray Carlsen. RGB modded SNES Jr. with jailbar fix. Softmodded PS2 with IDE 250 gb HDD, component video. Plays discs too. Game Cube with GCloader (ODE), component video, Game Boy Player. Does not play discs as the laser needs to be removed. Same with Dreamcast + GDEMU. The DC also has internal fan mod so it's really quiet. Outputs RGB video. First model NES with RGB mod. Model 1 Sega Genesis (best audio) outputs RGB video. 4 switch "Woody" Atari 2600, RGB modded. RGB modded/ jailbar fixed PC Engine Duo R. Plays both discs (originals and backups). Japanese Neo Geo AES outputs clean RGB video. Softmodded OG XBOX with HDD, outputs RGB video. Plays original discs. Every console has a flashcart, HDD or ODE. The Genesis can also play Master System with the Mega Everdrive, so technically I have 15 consoles (16 to 17 if we count the Game Boy Player). For controller input, each one has its original controllers, but it is also possible to use my custom made all Sanwa arcade controllers. They have PlayStation connector. I did not mod the kiosk btw, I'm not stupid. They stay in place with strong velcro that can be removed. They can be connected to all the consoles with different lagless adapters. This one is from Tototek. Great for fighting games and arcade ports. Actually any 2d game plays well with them. For sound, all the consoles are connected to this Yamaha RX-V659, which has great reviews in audiophile websites, with digital audio input for the PS2, and lots of settings. On top of it is my Retropad32 controller adapter (allows almost any controller to connect to almost any console), I can also connect a wireless 8bitdo controller to all my consoles with it. 2 Monster Power power centers, all consoles are connected all the time. All the RGB consoles are connected to an Axunworks Switchbox SCA101 (10 inputs, 2 simultaneous outputs), and component video consoles with a Shinybow SB-5460 (4 inputs, 2 simultaneous outputs). Both offer clean video output, no brightness loss. One of the jewels of the crown: a Sony PVM 20M2MDU. This is an early 2000's model, with lots of inputs, geometry and color adjustment available via onscreen menu, 600 lines of resolution (common TVs are 400). For those who are not familiar, these are some of the best CRT monitors in terms of video quality and signal compatibility. 20 inches big, and it has very few geometry flaws. It even supports both NTSC and PAL signals, though all my consoles are NTSC, I may mod the Commodore 64 to support PAL later. Both switchboxes are connected simultaneously to my LED TV via a Retrotink 5x pro. I also use it for downscaling (mostly to play fighting games on Steam on the monitor for less lag and arcade controllers). Some luminous signs to set the mood. My trusty ROB in case I'm in the mood for some Gyromite. Mostly for looks. All the consoles have a dust cover by Printer boy. They do not take away the look of the consoles! The reason for the title of this topic is because I strive for the following: - Best video output. All the cables are good quality. SCART ones are from Retroaccess.com, and a couple from Retro Gaming Cables. Component cables are third party with better shielding. Most cables are 15-20 dllrs a piece. - Original hardware. - Any games I want (original or backups) - Best audio - Best controllers - Best accessibility (No need to connect anything every time I want to play any game, quick access to flashcarts and controllers). - Maximum space saving: all of this is contained in a 60 by 37 inches space. Thanks for looking!
  9. Oops, can Someone move it to price check? Sorry.
  10. Hello! Long time ago I was able to score this beauty, and I wonder how much it would fetch in the open market. It would be the M82 in great condition (RF is very noisy, but composite works great), complete with gun holster and it's US version. The kiosk is the M-9 , it's solid, just has some scuffs and the top cover (above the monitor) is missing. No cardboard picture. It has both the bottom door, the gun holster and the grey door.
  11. Since this is a relatively obscure piece of hardware, I wanted to highlight it and give my general impressions about how well it works, some shortcomings, and how this can be useful in certain set ups and needs. Long time ago, I started to focus more on gaming than in collecting, so I started to build my ultimate gaming center. I won't be talking about that here, I'll just say that part of this "perfect" set up includes the best sound, the best display, the best consoles, all the flashcarts and ODEs, and video mods. But I also wanted to have the best controller setup possible as well. I mostly settled with original controllers for each console, since most of them are best for that purpose... but I wanted to have arcade controllers for shmups, fighting games, beat'emups, and in general, arcade ports. I discovered a company named Tototek which made adapters for most consoles that I had, to connect Playstation controllers to them. I sought someone to build quality arcade controllers with Sanwa sticks and buttons, using Playstation controllers as the base, and suddenly I had what I wanted for most of my consoles. Unfortunately, there wasn't an adapter for the NES, and apparently no solution was available. Also, for Wii, OG XBOX, Dreamcast, and Gamecube, there were old timey adapters that were elusive and expensive, but I did not mind that much because those were 3D games mostly, and for 128 bit ports of arcade games I had the PS2. So I just shrugged and focused on other things. From time to time I searched for different options to connect PSX controllers to the NES, I even tried daisy-chaining two adapter cables and failed miserably. I finally had found the adapter that promised to do what I wanted, plus much more. http://www.brunofreitas.com/node/84 This marvelous device can connect any controller to any (popular) console, modern or old. You can check all the details in the link above. It even allows to use 8bitdo wireless controllers and usb keyboards. Such flexibility does not come cheap though. The base unit above costs 72 dollars (62 if you settle for acrylic instead of aluminum case), and that alone won't get you anywhere. Each console needs a special input cable, and each controller needs it's output cable, and each is 15 dollars. So for the most basic setup, it exceeds 100 buckeroos. Only for 1 controller and 1 console (except Neo Geo controllers, those don't need a cable). I guess if you are savvy enough you can build your own, as it uses RJ45 to connect to the RP32. I was very hesitant to do the investment, since my main need was NES, but after considering what it would cost to get additional adapters for the 128 bit consoles, I caved in. I got only the cable for the PSX controller, and cables for all consoles I did not have Tototek adapters for. Later on, I realized I could use the RP32 to connect the same arcade controllers to my PS4, and also to use my 8bitdo SN30 Pro as the universal 2D and 3D controller of my dreams, so against better judgement, I bought more cables, and additional modules. I ended up spending a small fortune, around 300 :,v . So, was it worth it? The RP32 delivers great performance with no lag, great default mapping, so it is almost unnecessary to do any changes in most cases. And all the consoles recognize the controllers with no hassle. It would be a great competitive grade adapter too, I use it online on my laptop (it also does that) to play with the arcade controllers, and it's much better than my old PSX to USB cheap adapter. So, it can save some clutter (SOME, as you still need a lot of different cables) if you are into adapters for many consoles. Now, for the shortcomings: 1. It does not support rumble, nor memory packs (N64, Dreamcast). 2. For complete functionallity you need 4 modules, and sometimes you need to have up to 3 connected at the same time, and it looks inelegant. I solved most of that by taping all of them together, and buying a super short ethernet cable for two of the modules (the seller sends you a long one). 3. For N64 it uses the full range of the analog stick travel space, so for the 8bitdo it goes very fast from zero to max. This can be bad for FPS like Goldeneye, but it's forgivable in most cases. Other consoles work fine. 4. For the few cases you need to customize button mapping, one change in a particular controller will change the mapping in all consoles. Mostly irrelevant, as the default mapping is excellent, but for the arcade stick I wanted to arrange something different for the N64 and was unable to do it. You can save different mapping profiles in your computer, and reflash as needed, but it's not ideal. 5. No macros or button combinations. I would like to have that for games like NES Double Dragon where you need to press A and B for jump, and map it to a single button, but there's no such possibility. I asked the maker of the RP32 about this, and he said that adding more functions like this could add lag to the adapter, so he has refrained from implementing more stuff. Too bad. In general, I recommend it for very particular setups like mine, but in most situations paying 300+ dollars to connect a lot of different controllers to a lot of different consoles is... extravagant but unneeded. At least for 10+ consoles and a couple of controllers it makes up for the price of having a lot of adapters, which can be about 20 dollars a piece). But hey, if you want to play old collections of games in the PS4, Switch or XBOX One (and possibly newer consoles) with the originall controllers, no other adapter can give you that. Now excuse me, I will play Killer Instinct Gold on the N64 with Sanwa stick and buttons .
  12. I remember how before NA exploted, WATA emerged to address VGA bullshit, and now they are the ones with bullshit up to the neck. I hope value plummets like with the coin collecting market and we can buy games for reasonable prices again
  13. I don't know if this difference applies to composite and SVideo, but check this out. https://www.retrorgb.com/snesversioncompare.html
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