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3rdStrongestMole

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Posts posted by 3rdStrongestMole

  1. A. Any game where I die on a boss/level 50 times and then I finally get reaaallllly close to beating it... I am basically the anti-clutch in those situations.

    B. Zelda LttP, except for Blind and sometimes Moldorm (just because it's annoying to fall off the edge and start over).

  2. On 4/5/2023 at 4:09 AM, Sumez said:

    Could be anything, especially when your area is "an arcade cabinet". Like, worst case scenario there's an issue on the monitor PCB, but it could also just be a loose connection somewhere.

    If it's an original Ms Pacman/Galaga cabinet, I'm assuming we're talking the "Class of 81" release from 2000, which means it's a standard JAMMA cabinet with this PCB inside:

    o3628YU.jpg

    That makes it easy to figure out if the problem is on the cabinet side or PCB side, or inbetween (the connector).

    Check out the JAMMA pinout, and identify the pin for the red color on the top side of the PCB (should be the rightmost pin in the block of 12 adjecent pins when they are facing up).

    First thing though, I'd try just wiggling the board a bit while the game is running (touch it along the side of the pcb, don't touch any bare connections) and see if the red color comes on momentarily. There should be an operator test screen that makes it easy to see. If that's the case, we're just talking a weak connection, and either way the first thing I'd try is clean the edge connector thoroughly and reseat it, to see if it fixes the issue.

    If that doesn't help, I'd try plugging in another JAMMA PCB and see if it has red color, or plugging the MsPac/Galaga PCB into a different confirmed working JAMMA setup (cabinet or supergun) to see if it displays the red color there. JAMMA was the most widespread international arcade standard between 1986 and 2000+, so any local arcade enthusiast should have a ton of supplies lying around to help test if your friend doesn't have any more.

    Finally, if the issue seems to be on the PCB, or if you have no other way to test for that, I'd at least give the PCB a good look-over with a magnifying lens, and try tracing the connection from the "video red" pin down through any components that it passes through, and look for a cut trace, rust, or anything else that looks off. I'd also check the capacitors and see if they are bulging, that's always a cheap and easy component to replace.

    Okay, next time I visit him we'll dig in and see. This was very helpful and gives us a lot to try to attempt narrowing down the problem.  I'll let you know what we find. Thanks again!

    • Love 1
  3. 6 hours ago, Nugfish said:

    It seems like there are alot of sealed 360 games floating around. I have never been a sealed collector, but I have bought some lots recently with undisclosed sealed games, and also recently had a string of sealed 360 games locally that were just too cheap to pass up.

    I think that's what I like about them. I can get some good titles sealed, and have found at least 15 sealed titles locally that weren't junk. It kind of got me into it. But yeah,  I'm wanting early COD releases now, sealed. 

    • Like 1
  4. 1 minute ago, jonebone said:

    The scale has changed a bit over time.  There's plenty of A++ out there that would be A+ if graded today, they did get a bit tighter.  On CIB they went the other way though.  Probably about a .2 higher on a lot of stuff now.

    Yeah. It didn't take me more than a minute to find an example 

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/384996374908?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=LqTYa6-1QOm&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=VQ47At4ySIG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

    • Agree 1
  5. 1 hour ago, Gulag Joe said:

    Yes Genesis- blood code > snes “sweat”. I’m not sure what the Genesis seal curve grade is other than maybe they’re more lenient on the early tube seal releases? MK was not a tube seal though if that’s the case.

    C296AEEE-79FB-4654-B567-EC2E17F52302.jpeg

    I've just seen a lot of Genesis seals get a little more love for the grade from WATA. But I didn't even think about the seal differences... they probably were the tube sealed ones I've seen in the past.

  6. 43 minutes ago, Gulag Joe said:

    Based on my expert market gauge (sales of the OG), it appears the sealed market is trending upward. A 9.6 A++ sold for $4k in January of this year, which was surprising to me as I thought it was way too low. Tonight’s auction is two seal grades lower (9.6 A) but sold for just over $5k.

    590BA26B-33BA-4ACA-A354-E74C9442B08A.jpeg

    I missed the A++ one. That was Genesis? That's insane for a Genesis seal... unless,  were they using their Genesis curve for grading that particular seal?

  7. 3 hours ago, Gulag Joe said:

    There is no real market for a 1909 PSA 8 t-206 Ty Cobb green. And there are more of those (8) than there are 9.8 A++ sealed SM64 (3). Even more, there are over 800 PSA authenticated copies of the Ty Cobb out there- 4 times more than sealed red label SM64 authenticated by Wata. Amazing. 

    To counter that, PSA had been around for at least 4 times as long as WATA, as has baseball card collecting vs video game collecting as a recognized hobby/ investment opportunity.

    I'm not saying there are pallets of seales Mario 64 out there... just saying this is a relatively small sample size time-wise.

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