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Dragonite

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Posts posted by Dragonite

  1. 1 hour ago, a3quit4s said:

    I was gonna ask what revision the board was as well but it seems some tracework is probably needed here or as someone mentioned try a new power supply as well. If you want to ship it to me I can take a look or just grab you a multimeter and go nuts. 

    I will let you know which board it is when I jump back into tomorrow. I appreciate the offer to look at it but this unit will be my Guinea pig to learn on. I have always been able to figure out most of the amateur issues but never took them any farther then that but always wanted to. Unfortunately I don’t have another snes power supply to test that.

  2. 2 hours ago, Pikkon said:

    Your getting audio/video from the RF so the cpu and both ppu's are working.

    If I had to guess I would say some of the caps might be bad,composite cap should be 100uf or 220uf but have no clue which revision snes you have,also look for any broken traces and this schematic should be helpful.

    https://gamesx.com/wiki/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=schematics:snes_schematic_color.pdf

    Thank you for the link to the schematics. I’m going to start with tracing the connectivity and just move down the line. Thank you for the info. I will update on what I find out and let you know which board I have.

  3. 12 hours ago, darkchylde28 said:

    Sorry it wasn't a simple fix.  I found this link for you, and the best thought out of it is to use a multimeter to check continuity on the AV port pins and determine if there's any trace rot or not.  I'd follow the traces on the inside back as far as you can and if you ever don't have continuity, visually check the section you're troubleshooting to see if any solder mask or even traces appear to be missing.  I've never seen this on an SNES myself, but have run across it quite a bit on earlier release original XBOXes.  If you end up having a bad trace, it's fairly simple to just solder in a jumper wire to bypass the damaged section of trace and get things going again.  Good luck!

    Edit:  A couple of older posts have suggested some folks had the same issue occur due to wonky PSUs.  If you haven't already, try using the PSU from another unit to see if it makes any difference.

    I had seen that link when I googled looking to see if I could Narrow down the problem, just wish they would have updated what they figured out LOL. I’m going to start with the tracing the connectivity with my multimeter and move on from there. I will update in a few days how it’s going.

    • Like 1
  4. 3 hours ago, darkchylde28 said:

    Do you have any other AV hookups to be able to test?  I ran into this with my childhood SNES years and years ago and believed that there was some sort of issue with the system in that I could get RF out but not AV.  The AV cord I was attempting to use came from an N64 I got off of a coworker which worked fine on the N64, but wouldn't output anything at all on my SNES.  Years later, I dug out the same system and ended up with different AV hookups (first a super cheap audio/s-video cable, then a fantastic third party set meant for GameCube/PS2/Xbox [made by Pelican, maybe?]) which worked just fine on the same system.

    I don't know that there would be any sort of compatibility issues between certain system configurations and certain AV adapters, so I'd guess it likely comes down to what's making a good connection or not.  I know you said you checked the pins, but it's often hard to tell when system pins are just dirty enough to cause issues but look just fine to the naked eye, or even after a basic alcohol/q-tip session.  Fingers crossed you figure this out and it works out in your favor!

    So I gave this a try with another set of av plugs actually tried 4 other sets and unfortunately I’m getting the same results. I know the pins are super clean because if I have the Rf switch plugged in instead of the av plug it starts the games every time with no issues. Thank you for the info as it at least ruled out another possibility.

  5. So I picked up a snes today that I have thoroughly cleaned and I get video and audio through the Rf switch but I only get audio with the AV plug. The AV plug I’m using works just fine on my other snes. My TV is a CRT not a new tv. I have also cleaned and checked the AV plug pins and they look fine. Before I started the deep clean I checked to see if it worked and it had the same issue. Questions I have are:

    where should I start the troubleshooting? Does the Rf have a Separate capacitor then the AV plug in, on the board? Could it be a cold solder on the AV port? Any thing else I should consider? Thank you for any and all help.

  6. On 3/21/2021 at 5:21 AM, Sumez said:

    If your budget is around $50, you can't really do much better than the TS100. In fact even if your budget was several times as big, it would probably still be your best bet.

    ff7933e5a34e17a5.jpg

    It looks like a cheap china product, and it kinda is... except it's really, really good. It heats up to full temperature in a matter of few seconds (I had to see it to believe it), so you can pretty much just turn it off whenever you're not using it, without needing to wait for it to heat back up.

    Due to how light it is, you crazy good precision, like using a pen, and it's easy to carry around with you or reach annoying areas. It trasfers heat exceptionally well, and is overall on the level of much, much more expensive stations. It gave me a much easier time soldering a lot of things I didn't think could be improved from my old soldering iron.

    I tried a friend's some years ago, and went out and got my own immediately after. Haven't used my old big soldering station since.

    Thank you for the info but I ended up buying the Ksger T12 that Khromak recommended. Just waiting for it to arrive.

  7. 1 hour ago, Khromak said:

    This is the one I'm using, but it might be over $50 if you include tips and handle etc. Oh, and it's mentioned in the video but the best things about a better station are consistency of heat. If you're on a big heat sink you can lose the heat in your iron fast. Plus you can dial in specific temps as opposed to just a dial with general ranges.

     

    This is great thank you. Found one shipping from California for $59.99 which includes the handle he talks about in the video and the knife tip. So just one more question, will any of the t12 tips work in this model?

  8. 24 minutes ago, Gloves said:

    Is there something your current one doesn't do that you're hoping a "step up" would accomplish? A soldering iron is really just heating up solder, it doesn't really have to be fancy in my experience. 

    Looking for something that I can control the heat on better. The one I have has a screw Dial and always seems to be to hot or to cold. I feel like I’m having to constantly mess with it.

  9. I’ve been looking on the bay at soldering station in the $50 range and was wondering if anyone has any recommendations. I don’t remove chips but been playing with most all other repairs on old systems and battery replacements. I’ve been using a cheap iron and just looking for something that would been the next step up. Thank you for your help.

  10. Saw these on the FB market place about 1.5 hour drive from my house. They had only been listed for less then an hour so I sent a message and got no response. This was yesterday. Sent another message today and same thing. Just now theY were marked as sold. So needless to say I am not the lucky buyer. Someone out there scored pretty well. Better luck next.

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  11. 1 hour ago, RH said:

    I'm no expert but of the tell-tale signs I'm aware of, this seems to check out. The last one might be sketchy, but that could just be a case of blurry-cam. 

    We were driving when I took the picture😁 . One thing I did notice with all 3 of the Pokémon games is, they are a little hard to get out after you eject them from the back. The other 3 games that came with this eject much smoother and slide right out. The Pokémon ones I have to pull on a little hard. Not sure if that means anything. I’m pretty clueless on ds stuff and google really hasn’t helped to much yet but I’m still looking.

  12. 4 hours ago, cartman said:

    The trick ought to be getting to know an employee not hoarding shit from a dumpster. Not that i'm sensitive about dirt but collector items should be in as best condition as possible and those dumpsters might have all kinds of shit and dirt in them. Something might be moisty because someone threw wet paperstuff etc. For your personal collection it's ok but i'd never buy a dumpster collectible and i'd start start fucking fuming if i found out in retrospect that someone sent me one.

    I hear what you are saying but making friends has never been my best suit so that’s the only way I would ever be able to have acquire these😁. For me the fun is in the hunt and find. 

  13. So a few years ago on NA they was a member and I’m sorry that I don’t know his name but gave me the idea. He was dumpster diving and pulling system, games, empty boxes and what not out of their trash. So I did it several times and sure enough I found the same items. I also found boxes filled with promo display posters and signage that you see around the stores. So I have 6 of them stuffed with these items. The dates range from late 2016 through mid 2017.  It definitely filled my video game collecting fix when I didn’t have the money to buy anything 😁. My question that I pose here is, what are your thought that these items will have a value some day. I know it will be 20 from now if they do and I don’t have a great place or method besides the cardboard boxes they are in to Preserve them. Are they worth keeping or is the hope of value a pipe dream? Sorry for the bad English and I can’t wait to see y’all thoughts.

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  14. It’s been several months since I logged into the old site and was saddened to see it was gone. Was a member their from 2008 or 2010 can’t remember but it was a long time. After a little searching around I found y’all! So just saying hi again and going to snoop around and see what’s new. See you all around

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