enix2093

I kinda took a left turn on this based on what someone said, and I opened everything up and tested the batteries and literally every single game was slightly over 3v with the exception of one that was reading 2.99v.  On top of that, it appears that all of my games are in immaculate condition internally as well, so I've shelved this idea.  Now I have 75 batteries I don't need (yet) lol.

Stupid technical question:  If there are no saves, do the batteries drain, or just simply age "on the shelf".  Like, would it do me any good to just delete saves for long term storage to extend the life or is that stupid?

I've been collecting for 38 years and have a lot of old stuff that I do play here and there. Many of them are pretty pricey now, and I keep 90% of my games complete, but I do still play them
I'm going to be living in Japan for 5+ years and I don't plan on dragging my collection along with me.  My main concern is anything happening with leakage or whatever on my cartridges while I'm gone and won't be around to occasionally power them on or play them.  I have a lot of pricey stuff on NES, SNES, and Genesis and I'd hate to have this stuff get damaged if its as simple as spending $100 on batteries, and replace all of my old retro game cart save batteries (NES/SNES/Genesis) with new Panasonic coin cells.

As a collector, would you consider a game devalued if the save battery was replaced in preparation for long term storage?
Would it be more ideal to just remove all of the batteries for storage, then replace them when I get back?
Is this just stupid and paranoid and I should just leave them as-is?

I found some perfect fitting really thick 100 micron sleeves with the tape on the back (not on the flap) that look and feel great!  They even have a light perforation on the flap to make a straight fold. 

Not that my word means anything but I'd vouch for these.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/201110695008

I'll get some pics up when I get home.

The measurements on these is very close.  I ordered a pack.  We'll see how it turns out.  Though I'd really like to get a hard case top load thing like for baseball cards for these, I guess these could be better than nothing.

https://www.amazon.co.jp/dp/B00MGFNBOO

I've got a bunch of other Heiko bags I use for manuals and regular CDs, and they're fine.  I'd really like something thicker like the stuff found on retroprotection.com if I could.  I'm still looking for something thicker if possible.

I'm guessing its the "gluing" process of pressing a disc that results in this.  I've had music CDs with this and some CD-Rs too.  Never had an issue with it.  I think its just visual patterns from the adhesion to the plastic.

Does anyone know where to get good fitting protector sleeves or hardcase/topload protectors for games that come in sleeves like Christmas Nights on Saturn (or music CDs that come that way too)?

https://imgur.com/a/Vg77Svs

These appear on two of my Atlus games as well:  Tactics Ogre and Hoshigami.  I have a second copy of Hoshigami without the "orbs" that has a darker label side print as well.  Although I don't see any obvious signs, its possible a professional grade resurfacer was used on the second copy which maybe removed them, or this could be a later print where they fixed it.

So far, it looks like this might very well be specific to Atlus games.

Super Dodge Ball has a star manual

Also, Dragon Warrior had more revision than just the warranty info between its original release and the update.  There was a beta translation screenshot on the original with poor language that got updated with a final game screen.
 

Original

Star (bottom screen is different)

It looks like the back of the cart is different at a minimum.  There isn't any patent info on the OG cart.

https://i.imgur.com/gPZmEQz.png

The manual on the Classic one is even branded 1989 even though the outer case is 1992

https://i.imgur.com/0pLOSuD.png

https://i.imgur.com/4M41m1M.png

https://i.imgur.com/4zz86Fk.png

So other than the cover of the clamshell, is there any actual difference between these releases? The cart and manual look to be exact.
I'm just curious how one would know if they're buying the original or Sega Classics in a cart only situation, or maybe someone swapped the box at some point, etc...
Is the PCB different?

Sega Classics

https://i.imgur.com/5X6eRvc.png

OG

https://i.imgur.com/oorQpl4.png

Thanks for the help.

Well that's awesome to know.  It's probably the most mint box in my whole collection.

Yeah, I noticed that number.  It had a slight sheen to it too and barely was visible over the blue ink.

close ups of the ink look good too, and the Nintendo seal on the back side has a gold sheen to it as well.

Something just looks suspicious about it to me. Maybe because its just in too near-perfect condition, and the seller just so happened to be missing the manual...and I got it for really cheap from a best offer on ebay.

The Nintendo seal is gold ink with the expected sheen to it, which is literally the only thing that's making me still think its legit.  I know fakes have started using better print and grey paper and such so it can be hard to tell aside from some ink quality issues like cracking on the edges and the Nintendo seal, but I wonder if they're getting even more sly...

Did I manage to get a great deal, or are the bootlegs getting even better now?

Games came out great. Thanks.

Yes.  I was lucky enough to buy this back in like 1999 or 2000 after finding out it was a sequel to Soul Blazer.  Never let it go.

Price on Golden Axe 2 shipped (US)?

Yeah, all of the gold bits have the expected sheen to them.

I'm super interested.  I just have to come up with the money first.  I'll get back to you if I manage to raise the funds.

So what's the deal with Terranigma?  Is it English or German or...?  I assume since its not with Timewalk or whatever, it's legit...and with the guide?

And a side-by-side of a picture someone else took of their LttP cart for me that I copied the angle on.

I would wager to say they are exactly the same with the big difference being the dark gold outline around the text...and the dark gold has a sparkle to it - something I'm not sure a label bootlegger would go our of their way to do (?) for like a $3 label.  The only other very minor inconsistency between these portions of the label is my SNS-ZL-USA is a bit thinner.