Do you have a price scale or price cap for single items in your game collecting?

[GPX | 1,369]

2 hours ago, sp1nz said:

I'm quite omnivorous collector too, I have couple full sets and might go for a couple more, I don't do graded though because I don't usually buy things to sell them later. I do have some duplicates or lesser versions of games for various reasons that I will sell or trade eventually but that's just generally CIB stuff anyway. I mean my cap isn't carved in stone but I don't consider the possibility of breaching it thrilling or not thrilling, it's just something that might happen if something really amazing presented itself, like my example of MD Tetris, but I still wouldn't go nearly market price for it, so it kind of defeats the possibility of even needing to breach my cap. To use the word opportunity cost again, buying a really cool thing that would breach my price cap would very likely feel worse option to me than spending that same money across many cool things.

I think there is a general misconception that all graded- collectors are of the investment types. Whilst it’s probably fair to some extent, there are plenty who buy them for other reasons such as:

- the challenge of obtaining a rare condition

- a rare display piece.

The general mentality in collecting would be similar to CIB collecting though, in that you always aim to buy as low as you can (relative to market value). If anything, it makes it more a challenge to rationalize the spending you do at any given time. For a genuine sealed/graded collector to last the journey, there always need to be reflection on what to spend, how much to spend, and how much you can afford to spend? Because like any other commodities, without being self aware of your finances, you will hit a dead end in the hobby pretty quickly!

The difference to CIB collecting, is that I can’t really set a limit for sealed/graded games, as these are the types that likely increase in values over time. So taking all the points I’ve mentioned, limits set this year may change for next year, and so on. I can see myself going up to $5000-$10,000 IF I’m confident that this is a fair market value at the time of purchase and IF I can afford it at a time it becomes available to me.

TLDR - it’s not always easy to set limits in the realms of high end collecting; financial awareness is important at ALL times!

[phart010 | 1,707]

23 hours ago, MrWunderful said:

 

I have considered making a large “investment” (25k+) in some sealed WATA flavor of the month, but figured I will stick with property instead. I only want something physical of that value that is precious metal. 

https://www.apmex.com/product/224117/2020-niue-1-oz-gold-250-pac-man-40th-anniversary-coin

[sp1nz | 611]

25 minutes ago, GPX said:

I think there is a general misconception that all graded- collectors are of the investment types. Whilst it’s probably fair to some extent, there are plenty who buy them for other reasons such as:

- the challenge of obtaining a rare condition

- a rare display piece.

The general mentality in collecting would be similar to CIB collecting though, in that you always aim to buy as low as you can (relative to market value). If anything, it makes it more a challenge to rationalize the spending you do at any given time. For a genuine sealed/graded collector to last the journey, there always need to be reflection on what to spend, how much to spend, and how much you can afford to spend? Because like any other commodities, without being self aware of your finances, you will hit a dead end in the hobby pretty quickly!

The difference to CIB collecting, is that I can’t really set a limit for sealed/graded games, as these are the types that likely increase in values over time. So taking all the points I’ve mentioned, limits set this year may change for next year, and so on. I can see myself going up to $5000-$10,000 IF I’m confident that this is a fair market value at the time of purchase and IF I can afford it at a time it becomes available to me.

TLDR - it’s not always easy to set limits in the realms of high end collecting; financial awareness is important at ALL times!

I hope none of this comes across as hostile to you and it's quite rambly, it's just a different viewpoint. I can respect that even "non investors" can enjoy graded games and I definitely assume too much about the graded collectors in general but I personally like my CIB games because I can read the paperwork and actually interact with the game, even if my collecting is often shelf collecting at least the option to peruse the whole thing is there and it isn't just an art piece that takes extra space. For sealed games kept sealed there isn't really lost functionality and what is lost as extra space is at least gained as "added graded value", so it's more understandable that way even if not my jive. Grading to me is just a thick barrier to protect the game and an appraisal by some person with whatever authority to do so.

In case I wanted to have graded games then I would submit some sealed games I own. Currently I don't feel the need to grade sealed games I own and definitely not CIB games I own to reveal the "true condition" and for other reasons like not wanting to support that side of the hobby with my money and interest - same deal with buying graded games. "These are the types that likely increase in value over time", yes but value is not the end goal for me. My collection obviously has great monetary value attached to it and it's more interesting to collect when everything isn't a static mass of similar peanut values but at the same time I have no big interest in spending "inflated values" just from the virtue of something being graded and knowing its condition is presumably what is shown on the card. Of course sealed collecting adds extra layer of challenge to most games, but I feel like there are plenty of challenges even in CIB realm when you collect certain regions or platforms, like Korean retro CIBs or rare Game Boy CIBs, especially if looking for high end condition or maximum completeness. I'd say my collection is mostly good to very good condition but I don't aim for extreme completeness of inserts or anything most of the time. I do like to have maps/charts when applicable, also posters are nice to have but not mandatory for my taste. Heck I can even live with swapped Genesis etc. cases even if original is more desirable, it's quite hard thing to just get the game specific case after the fact when someone sold you a swapped copy. I also can accept more rough copy when it's way cheaper than the norm and not feel too much pressure about "upgrading the condition" later.

Going even deeper I guess we could ask the question "what even makes collecting hard?", since collecting simplified is: you earn money, you search and wait, you spend money on an item, you get said item. So the richest, the most well connected, the most ingenious searcher can get most everything they want, if people are willing to sell. The hardest part is arguably earning the money and choosing to spend it on video games and next hardest part is actually locating a game to buy, but this is double-edged sword too: too much time spent looking can be money and more productive time lost, and enough patience alone does not mean you're getting lucky. It's like if I could afford the most valuable game right now and I just paid that price, then I would own the "most sought after / most expensive thing". That alone isn't as interesting as amassing hundreds or thousands of interesting games or variants to me. I like having a vast and diverse gaming library compared to a small shelf of proverbial gold bars.

[MrWunderful | 2,927]

1 hour ago, phart010 said:

https://www.apmex.com/product/224117/2020-niue-1-oz-gold-250-pac-man-40th-anniversary-coin

I buy on apmex, and actually saw that lol. I stay away from “branded” metals though, because you end up paying a premium for nothing in the end. And I am not a pacman fan. Cool piece though. 

[tidaldreams | 654]

On 4/6/2021 at 7:01 PM, sp1nz said:

With all the price shenanigans going on I got curious if other people got a system on how they view prices for single items.

My personal price scale for single items as a CIB collector is:

 

insane	500+ X
very high	250+ - 500 X
high	100+ - 250 X
semihigh	50+ - 100 X
medium	25+ - 50 X
low	10+ - 25 X
very low	0+ - 10 X
free	0

X being technically for € but £ and $ (and maybe some others) work too, since they are quite comparable currencies and what I encounter the most beyond euros.

My price cap for a single item is 5000€, I haven't broken this cap yet but if there was like "extremely good deal" on legit MD Tetris, maybe I'd raise it. Even breaking 1000€ is rare.

With prices nowadays, almost anything decent will be in that high category or above.

[tidaldreams | 654]

double post

Edited April 8, 2021 by tidaldreams

[GPX | 1,369]

12 hours ago, sp1nz said:

I hope none of this comes across as hostile to you and it's quite rambly, it's just a different viewpoint. I can respect that even "non investors" can enjoy graded games and I definitely assume too much about the graded collectors in general but I personally like my CIB games because I can read the paperwork and actually interact with the game, even if my collecting is often shelf collecting at least the option to peruse the whole thing is there and it isn't just an art piece that takes extra space. For sealed games kept sealed there isn't really lost functionality and what is lost as extra space is at least gained as "added graded value", so it's more understandable that way even if not my jive. Grading to me is just a thick barrier to protect the game and an appraisal by some person with whatever authority to do so.

In case I wanted to have graded games then I would submit some sealed games I own. Currently I don't feel the need to grade sealed games I own and definitely not CIB games I own to reveal the "true condition" and for other reasons like not wanting to support that side of the hobby with my money and interest - same deal with buying graded games. "These are the types that likely increase in value over time", yes but value is not the end goal for me. My collection obviously has great monetary value attached to it and it's more interesting to collect when everything isn't a static mass of similar peanut values but at the same time I have no big interest in spending "inflated values" just from the virtue of something being graded and knowing its condition is presumably what is shown on the card. Of course sealed collecting adds extra layer of challenge to most games, but I feel like there are plenty of challenges even in CIB realm when you collect certain regions or platforms, like Korean retro CIBs or rare Game Boy CIBs, especially if looking for high end condition or maximum completeness. I'd say my collection is mostly good to very good condition but I don't aim for extreme completeness of inserts or anything most of the time. I do like to have maps/charts when applicable, also posters are nice to have but not mandatory for my taste. Heck I can even live with swapped Genesis etc. cases even if original is more desirable, it's quite hard thing to just get the game specific case after the fact when someone sold you a swapped copy. I also can accept more rough copy when it's way cheaper than the norm and not feel too much pressure about "upgrading the condition" later.

Going even deeper I guess we could ask the question "what even makes collecting hard?", since collecting simplified is: you earn money, you search and wait, you spend money on an item, you get said item. So the richest, the most well connected, the most ingenious searcher can get most everything they want, if people are willing to sell. The hardest part is arguably earning the money and choosing to spend it on video games and next hardest part is actually locating a game to buy, but this is double-edged sword too: too much time spent looking can be money and more productive time lost, and enough patience alone does not mean you're getting lucky. It's like if I could afford the most valuable game right now and I just paid that price, then I would own the "most sought after / most expensive thing". That alone isn't as interesting as amassing hundreds or thousands of interesting games or variants to me. I like having a vast and diverse gaming library compared to a small shelf of proverbial gold bars.

I get the entire thinking in the post above. Though people can still be both a CIB collector and also be a sealed collector. And I think this is the growing trend, CIB collectors merging towards the sealed realms. 

Back on topic, if you’re dealing with high end items (even examples such as rare condition CIBs or genuine rare CIBs), then it’s too hard to place a price limit, as these items will likely increase in value over time. I can also imagine this will be the same dilemma for any other fields of collecting, be it stamps, coins or comics. Setting a limit will set your aims at a narrow field of collecting,  whereas occasionally indulging in a high spend will allow access to the more high end items. This though doesn’t make it a silly thing, as it then would depend if this indulgence is purchased at a fair market value or not. 

[sp1nz | 611]

18 hours ago, tidaldreams said:

With prices nowadays, almost anything decent will be in that high category or above.

Depends on the definition of decent and also I would have to not own it already. I've already accepted that most NES games are like medium price at minimum and I can see myself needing to spend the $100+ prices on most good NES games I would want going forward but that's not the line where I draw decent anyway. There are plenty of great games, maybe not always super collectable, that are in the very lows and lows for some systems. When speaking of Nintendo cardboard, yeah, things won't really get cheaper but the price scale is not just about Nintendo cardboard or American versions.

7 hours ago, GPX said:

I get the entire thinking in the post above. Though people can still be both a CIB collector and also be a sealed collector. And I think this is the growing trend, CIB collectors merging towards the sealed realms. 

Back on topic, if you’re dealing with high end items (even examples such as rare condition CIBs or genuine rare CIBs), then it’s too hard to place a price limit, as these items will likely increase in value over time. I can also imagine this will be the same dilemma for any other fields of collecting, be it stamps, coins or comics. Setting a limit will set your aims at a narrow field of collecting,  whereas occasionally indulging in a high spend will allow access to the more high end items. This though doesn’t make it a silly thing, as it then would depend if this indulgence is purchased at a fair market value or not. 

Fair but I'm not part of the trend and I'm more likely to shift focus when prices increase beyond my cap on certain items. I'm not that likely to pay €5000+ for something that used to be sub €500, even if it's the new "fair" value. It's not even that I can't possibly spend big bucks now and then but €5000 could be spent on dozens of other interesting items and I really don't know how much there is on my want list that could exceed that right now or in the future and be something I that desperately want. €5000+ doesn't suddenly become less of a blow to pay on one item, even if the market shifts - also €5000 is close to AU$8000. I can't predict that I will never own a sealed graded game but if I owned one I would probably want to sell it instead of keeping it, because if I would want a graded item then it would likely be an actual investment.

I already basically have the full regional CIB sets I really wanted to have from retro side of things (MD, SNES, GB [EUR+AUS exclusives for all, but maybe it's debatable on some weird grey area imports that I might miss, whether they belong to sets or not and for GB I have half of a SCN set too and maybe would like the full coded set eventually and that could be pretty expensive per item but I already have the top rarest SCN GB games too]), so I technically don't have to sweat about a rare item getting too expensive from my favorite sets and for anything else I'm fine passing on too expensive games anyway. EUR with AUS exclusives sets I might want to complete: Saturn, Dreamcast, GBC and N64, and EUR with AUS exclusives sets I will very likely complete: Master System, NGP, NGPC, Pokémon Mini, Vita and 3DS. I also have N-Gage full set but it's mostly German versions, I got it all for €500. Japanese MD set would be cool to complete but maybe not going as far as Mega Modem games and Tetris.

I guess for me it's exciting to get the games people will covet in the future for cheaper, before they covet them - like I bought an American sealed NES KickMaster for $87 with hangtab still on the wrap (I wouldn't have bid $500 for it back then or now but I'll gladly take sealed for the price of CIB or just little higher), it would be likely candidate for grading if I ever wanted to, even when not a first appearance known character game but just quite rare decent game - on my scale I'd call it R8 rarity with it being sealed and I'd argue I own some R10 CIBs. Or maybe I'd grade a sealed 3.5" floppy Wolfenstein 3D, if some grading company would grade PC games. If I'm not mistaken the grading companies won't grade all regions and systems either - also not that I am fan of CIB grading but doesn't the grading only take into account cart/disc, instructions and box/case in the completeness - also the market is mainly in America and mainly Americans care about graded games.

Edited April 8, 2021 by sp1nz

[Hollywoodcaddy | 72]

On 4/6/2021 at 7:31 PM, ThePhleo said:

>_> if $500 is the insane level then I have a lot of introspection to do right now.

My motto is “Money is boring”. Pay what you want for your collectibles, and ignore the price of you can afford it.

Don’t make an ass out of yourself and buy something at triple the premium when cheaper alternatives are available, but also don’t regret paying triple of a cheaper alternative pops up a week later when it wasn’t there when you bought yours.

If I had to put “Branding” on my stuff it would go like this.

 

$0 - $20 — Buy it, just in case I might not have it and want it.

$20 - $40 — Try to remember if I have it, but don’t sweat it if I pass it up, or just bought a double.

$40 - $75 — Check if I have it, buy it if I don’t.

$75 - $150 — Check if I have it, consider whether I want to add it to the collection now or later

$150-$400ish — I must be looking for it to even be considering it, but I don’t need to inform “The Rib” (my wife)

$400ish-$2500ish — Same as above, but rib must agree.

$2500+ — Rib can’t know the price ... but she’ll know it was a lot.

High 4 figure, low 5 figure — “No rib, this is a safe investment! Promise”

HAHAHAHAHAHA....PERFECT!!!! and ditto

[Sumez | 2,943]

If a game costs more than $15 it ain't worth my time

[Hollywoodcaddy | 72]

4 hours ago, Sumez said:

If a game costs more than $15 it ain't worth my time

I guess you dont have much of a collection then hahaha...why are you in here!!!! Hahaha

[Gloves | 11,776]

1 minute ago, Hollywoodcaddy said:

I guess you dont have much of a collection then hahaha...why are you in here!!!! Hahaha

It's easy to have a huge collection with a $15 price cap lol.

[Foochie776 | 1,051]

I’ve broaden a lot of my collecting over the last year. I have a bit of Genesis stuff as well as SNES and n64 now but NES is still the only thing I really spend a fair amount on. The other consoles for me are passive goals and maybe when I’m done with NES it will be different. 
 

I’ve never had a price cap and I don’t think I will. I don’t yet own any of the real big NES games but I plan on buying with Dino Peak or Samson this year. I figure I have been at this for how long, I’m confident in me not regretting spending the money. My girlfriend thinks it’s kind of crazy but she also understands the passion I have.  

 

Heck, I may even be able to swing Dino Peak and Samson if I give up my search for 8 Bit X Mas 2008...

[Hollywoodcaddy | 72]

9 hours ago, Foochie776 said:

I’ve broaden a lot of my collecting over the last year. I have a bit of Genesis stuff as well as SNES and n64 now but NES is still the only thing I really spend a fair amount on. The other consoles for me are passive goals and maybe when I’m done with NES it will be different. 
 

I’ve never had a price cap and I don’t think I will. I don’t yet own any of the real big NES games but I plan on buying with Dino Peak or Samson this year. I figure I have been at this for how long, I’m confident in me not regretting spending the money. My girlfriend thinks it’s kind of crazy but she also understands the passion I have.  

 

Heck, I may even be able to swing Dino Peak and Samson if I give up my search for 8 Bit X Mas 2008...

I cant speak for flinstones 2 but I just got a little sampson and honestly I think it's one of the best games the nes ever made...if it had come out earlier in the nes life span I think it would've been as big as mario/zelda/mega man...its pricey, but at the very least its REALLY GOOD haha...I would've pulled the trigger on it earlier had I know it was such a good game to actually play

[goldenpp72 | 1,234]

Up to this point 1000 has been my 'oh nooooo' limit and in very rare instances, though that will likely change now that I've gotten a better job.

[Code Monkey | 2,006]

My cap is whatever I could easily sell something for if I absolutely had to. I'm fine paying $20 for something that's worth $40 because I know I can easily sell it for $30 if I had to get rid of it. I'm also fine paying $8000 for something worth $10,000 because I know I could unload it easily in a day if needed. All you're really doing is taking money from a bank account and putting it into a tangible item, you're not really getting rid of your money. It's just being transferred to another account where you can transfer it back whenever needed.

[AstralSoul | 502]

$0-$100 - If I want it I buy it

$100-$200 - Buy only if I have extra money to blow, even then I think about whether or not I really need it

$200-$500 - Reserved for only my absolute most desired games. If I didn't own it already, Earthbound would fall on this category

$500+ - I'm not rich. I'm not spending this much on any game.

[TheGreatBlackCat | 20]

On 4/7/2021 at 10:12 PM, tidaldreams said:

With prices nowadays, almost anything decent will be in that high category or above.

Man, you hit the nail on the head on why I went on a desperate (and crazed) spending spree this past month. My intuition's telling me that games like Popful Mail, the Lunar games, Shining Force CD, etc., are going to eventually become generally unobtainable by the average collector. I don't like that likely possibilty.

[Tanooki | 4,932]

If Lunar hits unobtainium levels I'll sell it.  I still haven't had time in over a year or two to play the thing, nice, clean and complete, a little shelf wear to the outer sleeve is the only bad part.

Honestly I got it as it was great deal, and sure it's lazy, but I'm more attached to the faster paced GBA release which I know is heresy to the purists.

[goldenpp72 | 1,234]

On 4/8/2021 at 10:26 PM, Gloves said:

It's easy to have a huge collection with a $15 price cap lol.

It might be huge, but it's likely not largely good either, well, not for the CIB and above style, I guess for cart only people it's plausible.

Edited April 10, 2021 by goldenpp72

[Hollywoodcaddy | 72]

3 minutes ago, goldenpp72 said:

It might be huge, but it's likely not largely good either, well, not for the CIB and above style, I guess for cart only people it's plausible.

It's not at all plausible for us loose cart people hahaha....at least not for the nes....obviously you can aquire TONS of games from all different platforms for $15 or less and even quite a few for the nes...I have no doubt someone could have quite the collection of games for under $15 and theres nothing wrong with that at all ...but in reality if your goal is to complete a collection or get close $15 and under just isn't going to cut it...especially for nes cib or loose

[goldenpp72 | 1,234]

1 hour ago, Hollywoodcaddy said:

It's not at all plausible for us loose cart people hahaha....at least not for the nes....obviously you can aquire TONS of games from all different platforms for $15 or less and even quite a few for the nes...I have no doubt someone could have quite the collection of games for under $15 and theres nothing wrong with that at all ...but in reality if your goal is to complete a collection or get close $15 and under just isn't going to cut it...especially for nes cib or loose

I kind of live on my own cloud since I only strictly buy games with their cases and manuals (when applicable) so I try not to assume too much. I know for NES/SNES it can be tough still for sure but I always find it odd that so many struggle as cart collectors unless they go for full sets.. Like someone will post that they got 5 carts and they're worth nothing but it's like an achievement to them, when I could spend that much going to like, Texas Roadhouse and get it just as easily.

I envy that ease though, if I were a cart collector using my same parameters I would have finished like 7 years ago lol.

[Hollywoodcaddy | 72]

42 minutes ago, goldenpp72 said:

I kind of live on my own cloud since I only strictly buy games with their cases and manuals (when applicable) so I try not to assume too much. I know for NES/SNES it can be tough still for sure but I always find it odd that so many struggle as cart collectors unless they go for full sets.. Like someone will post that they got 5 carts and they're worth nothing but it's like an achievement to them, when I could spend that much going to like, Texas Roadhouse and get it just as easily.

I envy that ease though, if I were a cart collector using my same parameters I would have finished like 7 years ago lol.

Yep I understand your side of it too...I decided to go for a full collection ...north american and unlicensed as well as the variants...so for me it makes sense to do loose...if I were to do cib it would literally never end in my mind...just for the 676...do I count cart manual and box as cib or do I need correct inserts plus the correct sleeves and bags ..and then there is condition haha...it would consume my life so I stick with those for now haha...and yes it is actually pretty funny to see some people posting there 4 or 5 game find haha...and I suppose for some people that aren't huge collectors those little finds are big victories haha...its cool...if everyone was hardcore there wouldn't be anything left haha

[goldenpp72 | 1,234]

11 minutes ago, Hollywoodcaddy said:

Yep I understand your side of it too...I decided to go for a full collection ...north american and unlicensed as well as the variants...so for me it makes sense to do loose...if I were to do cib it would literally never end in my mind...just for the 676...do I count cart manual and box as cib or do I need correct inserts plus the correct sleeves and bags ..and then there is condition haha...it would consume my life so I stick with those for now haha...and yes it is actually pretty funny to see some people posting there 4 or 5 game find haha...and I suppose for some people that aren't huge collectors those little finds are big victories haha...its cool...if everyone was hardcore there wouldn't be anything left haha

A big part of collecting is choosing your battles. For me box condition is important as I display it, the carts and manuals should be at least pretty good but I can live with small stuff, and I rarely care about the other stuff unless it's like a cool map or something. That's part of the fun though, to establish your priorities and see where you can get to. I always knew I only wanted games I found interesting so going for Boxed/Manuals too added to the challenge, though I was surprised just how much I wanted in the end.. That's why it's good to have restrictions, you'll inevitably go beyond some goals as you learn about stuff and if your goal is just 'everything' it will become nearly impossible.

[GPX | 1,369]

1 minute ago, goldenpp72 said:

A big part of collecting is choosing your battles. For me box condition is important as I display it, the carts and manuals should be at least pretty good but I can live with small stuff, and I rarely care about the other stuff unless it's like a cool map or something. That's part of the fun though, to establish your priorities and see where you can get to. I always knew I only wanted games I found interesting so going for Boxed/Manuals too added to the challenge, though I was surprised just how much I wanted in the end.. That's why it's good to have restrictions, you'll inevitably go beyond some goals as you learn about stuff and if your goal is just 'everything' it will become nearly impossible.

Choosing your battles is the key here. Some fields of collecting you can set limits where other fields you simply can’t if you want to delve deeper. There is no right or wrong, just make sure you pick a battle that you can “keep on fighting” (but still enjoy).