WATA A++ (rarity) > WATA 9.6/9.8 (rarity)

[GPX | 1,369]

I’ve seen a few YouTube videos of buyers of WATA games, and I think there is a certain level of misconception going on. Maybe I’m wrong, but I feel people are too focused on the 9.6 or 9.8 when the A++ is actually the rarest part of a sealed game. 

In other words, it’s the seal that is the hardest to maintain in pristine condition, not as hard for the box/case under the seal. You can argue that whilst sealed cardboard boxes can be squashed over time while the seal may remain intact, it would be very rare for a box to have damage while a seal remains perfect. Conversely, if a seal can have minor wear (dust/abrasions/insect nibbles), the box/case still can remain absolutely intact.

Have you ever thought about this when you buy (or planning to buy) a WATA game? Does it have any relevance to you?

Edited October 31, 2021 by GPX

[Gulag Joe | 582]

For a somewhat accurate assessment, you could probably see if that theory is accurate from the data from all past HA sales. I heard somebody was tryna pull data like that in one of these other threads.

[RH | 4,903]

I have bought very little/few sealed games in my day, but IMHO, it's about how the game looks. Specifically, wear must be minimal to non-existent but if that legit perfect specimen is way out of reach for me, then I tend to lean toward a balance of wear, but I do lean toward a more prestige box.

I wouldn't take off the shrink wrap, but you can always remove a ratty torn up wrapper and leave a nice box.

[inasuma | 1,203]

You can say the same about the box. It probably just comes down to the individual collector and type of game.

Personally, I like to have a perfect seal as long as the box is 9.4-9.6 range or better. But depending on the game, an A seal is acceptable (DVD case games for example) as long as the case is 9.6 or higher.

But I would tend to agree the A++ seal really helps certain games stand out among its peers.

Edited October 28, 2021 by inasuma

[GPX | 1,369]

19 hours ago, Gulag Joe said:

For a somewhat accurate assessment, you could probably see if that theory is accurate from the data from all past HA sales. I heard somebody was tryna pull data like that in one of these other threads.

I’ve seen enough examples on Youtube and Ebay, along with a general observation from collecting over the years. I certainly don’t mind though if someone does do an actual statistical analysis for how often A++ and 9.8 show up. Particularly for the older, retro games.

[GPX | 1,369]

1 hour ago, inasuma said:

You can say the same about the box. It probably just comes down to the individual collector and type of game.

Personally, I like to have a perfect seal as long as the box is 9.4-9.6 range or better. But depending on the game, an A seal is acceptable (DVD case games for example) as long as the box is 9.6 or higher.

But I would tend to agree the A++ seal really helps certain games stand out among its peers.

I think most collectors would be happy with a 9.4-9.6 condition. The real challenge is to get that grade or higher, together with the A++. 

This thread isn’t about focusing on the individual preference though, as it’s more about the objective observations on which is rarer to find mint, the box/case or the seal?

[inasuma | 1,203]

6 minutes ago, GPX said:

I think most collectors would be happy with a 9.4-9.6 condition. The real challenge is to get that grade or higher, together with the A++. 

This thread isn’t about focusing on the individual preference though, as it’s more about the objective observations on which is rarer to find mint, the box/case or the seal?

Ah fair point, thanks for the clarification.

A++ should by definition be the hardest grade to get because, as Wata has said, the highest grade implies perfect (or near-perfect) manufacturing. So 9.8-10 and A++ should be in that category.

That said, based on my own experience, A++ grades haven't been particularly tough to get. Some data to consider (some admittedly have an easier time getting A++ like F-Zero PC and Gauntlet Legends since they were factory fresh as recent as... right now):

To be fair though this data reflects my personal taste so it's inherently bias towards (shocker) the best condition. hah

[tidaldreams | 654]

I have a 7.0 A++. Do I win the worst grade with highest seal rating?

[GPX | 1,369]

2 hours ago, tidaldreams said:

I have a 7.0 A++. Do I win the worst grade with highest seal rating?

You’re in the running for the medal! 

Mind me asking why it got a low grade? It looks pretty decent from the front view.

 

[tidaldreams | 654]

18 minutes ago, GPX said:

You’re in the running for the medal! 

Mind me asking why it got a low grade? It looks pretty decent from the front view.

 

Two words: rusty staple 

It actually doesn't even have any cracks on it.

[inasuma | 1,203]

1 hour ago, tidaldreams said:

Two words: rusty staple 

It actually doesn't even have any cracks on it.

That seems a bit harsh.  

[GPX | 1,369]

3 hours ago, tidaldreams said:

Two words: rusty staple 

It actually doesn't even have any cracks on it.

That seems a pretty hefty deduction, particularly if it displays fine.

To be honest, I’d rather the 7.0 rusty staples than a 9.8 Final Fantasy Fruit Fly edition:

[3rdStrongestMole | 430]

It makes sense that A++ would be harder to come by, and these would (usually) be paired with high box/ case grades. I mean,  it's hard to damage the box or case without first damaging the wrap. If someone told me they had an A++ sealed game, I could assume with pretty high accuracy that the interior contents would be in great shape. 

Of course, there are always exceptions...

[AdamW | 713]

easiest thing I can think of is sun fading. UV hurts the wrap too, but more slowly. It'd be more immediately evident on the artwork than the seal.

Rusty staples going all the way down to 7.0 sure does seem harsh, agreed...

[GPX | 1,369]

12 hours ago, AdamW said:

easiest thing I can think of is sun fading. UV hurts the wrap too, but more slowly. It'd be more immediately evident on the artwork than the seal.

Rusty staples going all the way down to 7.0 sure does seem harsh, agreed...

I think this is pure hypothetical on your part. A lot of sealed collectors aren’t going to buy sealed games just to shower them in light, to risk sun fading. Realistically, most of the sealed games you see have no overt sun fading at all.

[AdamW | 713]

I was just replying to 3rdstrongestmole to suggest the most obvious way I could think of that you could get a low box grade in a high seal grade.

Edited October 31, 2021 by AdamW

[GPX | 1,369]

4 hours ago, AdamW said:

I was just replying to 3rdstrongestmole to suggest the most obvious way I could think of that you could get a low box grade in a high seal grade.

Ah, I see. Nice bit of lateral thinking then!

[AdamW | 713]

yeah, sorry, I should've quoted to make that clear!

[GPX | 1,369]

On 10/29/2021 at 7:23 AM, inasuma said:

Ah fair point, thanks for the clarification.

A++ should by definition be the hardest grade to get because, as Wata has said, the highest grade implies perfect (or near-perfect) manufacturing. So 9.8-10 and A++ should be in that category.

That said, based on my own experience, A++ grades haven't been particularly tough to get. Some data to consider (some admittedly have an easier time getting A++ like F-Zero PC and Gauntlet Legends since they were factory fresh as recent as... right now):

To be fair though this data reflects my personal taste so it's inherently bias towards (shocker) the best condition. hah

I’ve looked into WATA’s actual definition of their “A++”:

A seal that is in new or very near to perfect condition. In the condition as it was when it left the factory, this is the best condition one would hope to see in a seal. Only displays the lightest of factory processing marks, if any. Often described as “Case Fresh.”

So basically they’re saying an A++ isn’t a perfect seal necessarily. I think this makes the A++ more equivalent to a condition range comparable to a game box/case of 9.6 to 9.8. This would likely strengthen the argument in the original post.