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VGS Restoration Shop 🛠️


fsped09

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I'm late to the party, but for Sharpie markers on plastic I've had good luck saturating the marks with alcohol and letting it sit for a few minutes then gently scrubbing at it with a Q-tip and more alcohol.  Permanent markers are usually alcohol based, so the pigment should soluble in it.  The old stuff just takes a little longer to dissolve.

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  • 5 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Got this at a goodwill today.  I was shocked not just that something like that would have been there as I've not seen one publicly since I moved back here, but that they'd only want $3.  I didn't take a good before pic, but as you can see the stickers are jacked up, it's stained too, battered.  What isn't evident is the battery compartment is about 20% covered in a nice splash of rust.  Also not visible the stickers are curled, bent, and just hanging in there.

It took me about an hour and a half or so of work on this, but the second image, you'll see the after on the left (the right is my original one.)

The battery box was fairly rusty in places, no power originally, after the speaker was weak and scratchy/poppy too but the screen was ok. Top sticker gone, sides detached somewhat and front too, and this is an odd variant I've never seen but the bezel inside is a sticker and it's not 100%.

Gutted the thing, spent a lot of time with vinegar, magic eraser, alcohol and papertowels and q-tips. Did the minimum to test and it blinked on but suffering. So I removed removed the battery connectors and cleaned it up and removed the rust. Re-set them in place, then detached the wiring inside and re-soldered them, including a spot to each battery connector post. At this point it came to life and proper with clean and clear audio. I buttoned the thing up, and made an attempt on the stickers, and they didn't behave, so I removed them slowly, flattened them, and re-attached the with new glue and there's the result.

I already owned one, the right one I've had probably a decade, the powered one is using my originals perma power pak. Notice that sticker bezel vs mine which is paint into the plastic? I'd love to fix that, but no one makes that.

IMG_2951.JPG

IMG_2949.jpg

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5 hours ago, drxandy said:

Nice work on the pac fix @Tanooki! I see that nbd $5 Wii u pad, that's a score for sure.

 

Thanks.  I need to research that one first.  I know what it's worth as a sold for parts doorstop ($40) but I'm curious if it works but I don't have a power source, and even if i did, I don't have the base console so I doubt I could test it anyway so it's a big question.  It also still has the original stylus with it still.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just finished a GameCube controller that had some age on it:

20200118_141141.thumb.jpg.e6f0f12e2bdc2676ed009d065cff3177.jpg

Did a bunch of cleaning on the shell and board, swapped out with a green button set. The z button requires a little exacto knife action and stealing the metal spring out of the original part.

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I think it turned out nice and matchy, gonna have to do a little more work on the z button but almost there.

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Sorry to double post but I cleaned this snes controller up this morning, full of finger fudge. It was pretty gross inside, new buttons, new membranes for everything but the d pad (need to find ones designed like the original pad, the different ones I've tried don't have the right feel or same shape as the OEM. I kinda wanna make it black to match, might try vinyl dye.

20200119_112642.thumb.jpg.cb37468d15d1f8fc5bdcc49f09524023.jpg

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19 hours ago, drxandy said:

Sorry to double post but I cleaned this snes controller up this morning, full of finger fudge. It was pretty gross inside, new buttons, new membranes for everything but the d pad (need to find ones designed like the original pad, the different ones I've tried don't have the right feel or same shape as the OEM. I kinda wanna make it black to match, might try vinyl dye.

 

That's a phrase I've never heard of and I could have lived without hearing. Yuuuuuuuuck (and I totally know what you're talking about!)

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Made a separate topic but looking to get nicotine grime off the inside of a Snes kiosk, especially the red top sign. The clear part just smudges when cleaning it, appears to be an old transparency so I don’t want to take off the powder coating. Anyone have any ideas?

 

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  • 1 month later...

I love restoring gamecube controllers.  Of any controller for any console, it seems GC controllers are at the highest risk of having been dipped in syrup and potato chips and left to sit for 15 years, but they are also easy to take apart and work on, so it's really satisfying to bring them back from their nasty state into a serviceable piece of hardware.

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Moderator · Posted
On 2/25/2020 at 7:17 PM, drxandy said:

Found a wavebird receiver on the cheap so I snagged a controller off of eBay and cleaned it up.

Before:20200225_102930.thumb.jpg.8b62e23fe387ecb2e0a417d62d941c4d.jpg

After:20200225_115741.thumb.jpg.a5f7ff0cff892a8253d23b8dc41f796c.jpg

--

 

Love this! I've restored a few GC controllers over the years and its always satisfying. You should try to swap the analog sticks for fun next time. I found it quite nice having the C stick on the left. Nice work!

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  • 5 months later...

@fsped09 you inspired me to try the light box.

Project in progress: Hori Xbox 360 EX2 arcade stick.

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Killer deal, missing the USB breakaway cable and must have sat next to a window.

Bottom plate had rust, and hidden rust on the other side.

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I used vinegar and elbow grease, got rid of most of the rust but left with rust pitted surface, so I will be sanding next and giving a coat or two of rustoleum to protect.

Back to the yellow, I read people were using 40vol hair developer.  I happen to have 20vol in the house so I figured it might be safer on the plastic since 40 is strong stuff.

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Painted it on multiple times for hours and left it overnight for a total of 12hrs under blacklight.

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The only blacklight I have is this tube boi, but I made it work.

Results after first session:

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Not bad at all, the left side of the stick still was a little yellowed so I decided to repeat the process for another 12hr run last night.

More soon!

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Sanded for an hour by hand. Started with 350 grit wet then moved up to green scrubby, some 1500 grit, and finally steel wool. I probably should have used a power tool but hey.

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Going with this lime shade to fit the 360 theme, also had this perlecenct spray I thought would look cool over top. I tested on some cardboard how it would turn out and was pleased that it wasn't fully opaque over the lime.

Wiped down with 90 isopropyl, and zapped the interior green, waiting for it to dry (sorry, bad lighting; the color is much more vibrant).

20200814_154327.thumb.jpg.9cf4f9045e8e834656499b71dca03d12.jpg

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Exterior of the metal baseplate paint in progress:

Before perlecenct:

20200815_201536.thumb.jpg.4f5acd6a43e53b36681c05e01b012103.jpg

After:

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I have never used a cool top coat like this and i had a hard time controlling with a light touch (first attempt had speckles so I sanded lightly with steel wool and started over)

I just went for it, lighter shade than I was hoping for but it has this sparkley color shift light to dark thing going on. 

The drying continues, humidity is up here so that extends the time it takes to cure the paint.

The hardest part of painting is patience.

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